I am looking into to trying to make my own grips. My question is what grade of cork do you guys use? Price ranges from 50 cents or so to upwards of 2 dollars per cork ring. Should I just go with something in the middle? Maybe get the cheap ones for the first few?

The more expensive cork will be clearer - fewer pits and holes. Such imperfections, however, rarely matter other than to the eye, unless they're so large that they actually make the grip uncomfortable to handle and use. This would likely be the bottom of the barrel priced cork. Of course, it is possible to fill pits and holes with a variety of "putty" type fillers than can make even very poor cork acceptable.

Obviously if you just want to turn a few practice grips, doing so with top quality cork doesn't make a lot of sense.

You may also find this helpful: [www.rodbuilding.org]

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Thanks Tom! Think I will get some lower grade to start.....and maybe fill with some paste, I am sure I will mess a few up anyways!

yes do use the cheep er one's for the 1st or 2 , 2 common ways to build # 1 on the blank # 2 on a steel rod .
what ever way you do it will work out for you , Flex Coat has some very good videos on how ,
here are 2 of the more common ways # 1 build on the rod then turn down , # 2 build on a steel rod ,it all depends on what tools you have , all I can say they both work well , if you use the steel rod use lots of wax so you can get it off , good luck it will come out great
it is a custom rod so it can be off a little I think SID

William Sidney
AK

It depends....are you making grips for customers? If so, if their budget allows, use the very best! Some of today's cork, even that used by big name rod labels is very poor in appearance, and not something I would want on one of my builds!

If you are just starting and want to gain experience, using the cheaper quality is a good idea.

Cork fill paste works, but it is quite apparent when viewing the grip.

I usually use some mixed burl rings in the grip along with the cork. I may mix about 1/3 burl and 2/3 cork in some type of alternating pattern. This way, I can use mid to lower priced cork rings because the flaws do not stand out as much.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2015 11:23AM by Bob Riggins.

Split grips may be the answer for you.

Split grips use just a fraction of the cork that is required by full grips.

For example a rear grip that is 8 inches long, required 16 pieces of 1/2 inch cork. But the 4 inch rear grip of a split grip only used 8 pieces of cork.

With respect to a filler for cork.

Elmers's 'light oat" is a very good filler that is generally available at the nearest home building store for a few $$ per tube. Have the grip clean, by blowing or vacuuming the cork. Use the filler to fill the pits, then put the grip back on the lathe and sand it back level. if pits still remain, do another fill for the deeper pits. Sand again and you will be good to go.

These days, if you want what might be considered to be quality pit free cork, you are likely to pay $3-$8 per ring. Hence the reason that commercial rods today, normally have some filler in the cork that is used in their grips.

Be safe

Like Bob, I use the burl cork rings as well. I even go so far as to make the whole grip out them. They are a bit more dense than cork, but I like the fact that I don't have to worry about large pits showing up unexpectedly, and the price is pretty good as well. It's a bit of a different look and feel, but I like it.

Joe,
In addition, the weight of burled cork is about double the price of regular cork.

I know, but it's no worse than a good firm EVA. If the weight bothers you too much, it can always be bored out and mounted on a foam core. The Flex Coat arbors are perfect for that application. When the weight penalty is too much, there are options, a sleeved grip (burl cork, EVA, woven graphite, or other) or shell out the money for good cork.

I'm just not a fan of the surprise pits. My personal rods tend to end up with woven graphite or EVA for that reason.

The last time I checked, the difference between regular cork and EVA on split grips with the dimensions I typically use is about 1/4oz on small OD blanks, and less on larger OD blanks. With a full grip, the weight penalty is higher, and is definitely worth more consideration.

Like everything else in rod building, grip material choice is a compromise. There are pros and cons to everything we do and in the end, the goal is to end up with a rod that will perform the desired task within the ergonomic parameters agreed upon the builder and the end user. Sometimes this is the lightest build possible, other times other characteristics take priority. With micro guides I tend to err on toward using a guide or two more than I would use with traditional sized running guides. With grip design I tend to make grips that will fill the hand rather than use small 1"-1.5" nubs, and reel seats I prefer a traditional blank exposed seat to a split seat. The end result leaves my personal builds 0.5 oz to 0.75 oz heavier than I could possibly make them, but the ergonomics are right and that is just as important as build weight. A light rod that is uncomfortable just won't see time on the water.

I also like the burl cork rings and look, I wonder if you were to use cork with pitts and fill them with Elmer's black walnut wood filler and sand if you would come close to the same look??? Or use some kind of colored inlay powder???

thanks for all the replies, I ordered some rings off @#$%&....gonna give it a whirl! thanks again!

Well said Joe, weight is not the only consideration in the usability of the rod.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

ALPS is coming out with some cork and eva tools to help. Available for all power wrap machines. Stay tuned for ICAST 2015 for details!

R. McBride

Batson Enterprises
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