Hi All,

Just finished my first set of 30-60 stand up rods helped by Master Stan at Alba Rods. Now the first of many silly questions, sorry? For my next project I would like to build a set of very heavy (read stiff to the rod tip) blue marlin chair rods. Any guidance on the right blank, number of wraps/coats of finish, guide selection and any other help/pitfalls in building this type of rod would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Jim

Hi Jim,

Go thru your blank catalogs and pick out the blank that you think is the best for the criteria. Post it here and hopefully you will get gopo input both positive and negative. It can be a great learning experience for you.

Capt Neil Faulkner

Hello Jim.

If you are after the real big marlin the biggest & baddest would be something like a Seeker I.G.F.A. Trolling blank (SIGFA130), Aftco butt, Aftco Big Foot roller guides, a single "E" under wrap a "C" over with another "E" over that, pay special attention to the guide foot prep.

Be sure everything fits right, this kind of pressure and torque if it does not fit right it could blow up in your face, when one of these babies breaks it could be nasty, a 600+ lb. fish can do some damage.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thanks Bob, Thanks Neil,

I will put my parts list together and repost. Bob, could you explain a bit more on the guide foot prep...smooth transition, flat to the blank??? What about finish, number and thickness of coats?

Oh and fore grip, where can I source the big ones with the rounded transition to the blank?

Cheers
Jim

Hello Jim.

At this time I am using a equal combination of Threadmaster and Pro Kote on my guides, I have used a lot of other finishes at one time or another and all will work fine, as for the thickness or number of coats, it's up to you butt at the least I do is one to cover the under wrap wait to set put on the guides and both over wraps, another coat of finish just to soak in well and one last coat for depth and shine.

As for the guide prep you want a smooth transition and NO BURRS and don't forget to paint the guides where you did metal work to keep from having corrosion down the line, some use black marker to paint but some tests have showed that the chemicals in the ink can cause corrosion too, I use Testors Model Paint.

As for fore grips they are in most cases up to you, on my last build I used an ST14-3/4 covered with blue Nu-Skin shrink wrap, other times I've used leather grips or even Hypalon grips.

A lot of the sponsors on the left sell this stuff, pick who you wish do deal with, most of them will send you a catalogue if you ask them too.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

IMHO, a lot depends on intended reel size and line type/class, boat beam and chair placement. Fish size matters of course but that is somewhat beyond control. Also is the ability to "break down" rod and/or switch between curved/straight butt a plus? And then, honestly, is money a factor? It costs so much to marlin fish that it is generally better to spend more on equipment. Winthrop guides are way up there, but something I'd consider if I was after 1,000# plus fish. For 500# ones aftco are a safe choice.

You need the finished rod to be long enough to clear the corners. If that ends up requiring a 7 1/2 foot rod you would want a slower action rod and would fight with a longer stroke. Today an angler could head out (safely) in a smaller (less beam) boat. He could use a smaller reel loaded with braid. These choices make a difference. Perhaps enough of a difference to go from IFGA blank, unibutt, and roller guides.....to live bait blank, ring guides, and blank thru construction.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Jim i'm no expert on big game rods but i've been building for a long time and am also in the UK - so if you need any help etc just drop me a message.

W.V.A. Custom Rods
UK

As far as wrapping the guides, I would go with size C underwraps, D wraps, and E overwraps. Trying to wrap over E thread with C thread is difficult at best to get a smooth, good looking wrap.