The simplest solution is to get the lowest price MicroWave system. Follow the recipe to place the butt guide, reduction guide and the first running guide. Then either use their chart for the running guides or use a static test to place them. They will get the job done, and done very well.
If you want to use the Fuji K series guides, use the KR Concept tool that Jim put up recently, [
anglersresource.net]
Either of these tools will take the guess work out of the guide selection.
The 27x NGC method is another option. For this, measure the spool diameter. Place the choke guide (first small fly guide) 27x the distance from the lip of the spool when it is about half way through its oscillation. Now, remove the spool and make a line from the spool shaft to the choke point. I use a piece of fishing line wit the rod held upside down in my wrapper. Place your reduction guides where they just touch the line. In Y style frames (Fuji Y, Amtak A frame, Alps XY), a 25mm, 16mm, and 8mm will likely get you in good shape. When you look down through the 25mm guide they should make a bullseye pattern with the choke guide in the center. Place the running guides using a static test, or place them with equal distances of ~4" to 5" between each pair, or a progressive spacing. The spacing of the running guides is up to you.
With any of the methods, if you have your handle built, you can determine where the choke/first small running guide is located and measure the distance between there and the tip to help determine the total number of guides needed. If you have one guide for every 4" or 5" in that area, you will have plenty, and may have a spare or two to hold onto for future repairs.
Yes, spinning guide trains are a bit harder to dial in, but they are still more forgiving than you might think. Each of the above systems has its merits. They all work, and can produce a great rod.
Joe
