I'm new to rod building, and while I feel I have a fairly good understanding of the mechanics of casting rod guide trains, I am almost completely clueless when it comes to spinning rods and their guide trains. Despite a rather spirited debate in another thread concerning the KR Concept GPS, I for one love it !!! Anything that works well enough to give a beginning rod builder a good performing rod "right out of the box" is right up my alley.

My question concerning the GPS app is ...... it doesn't list fluorocarbon line. For me that's a problem, as I pretty much only use fluorocarbon line on spinning gear. I know a lot of people shy away from fluorocarbon for spinning gear, but if you use the correct model and brand of line, and let the spool diameter of the reel it's being used on determine the size line you use on it ... fluorocarbon line on an open face spinning reel doesn't present any real terrible problems. At least not in my experience.

With that said, I realize fluorocarbon line is more stiff than mono or braid. And being more stiff, I would assume it would most likely require a larger stripper and reduction train guides? Would this be a correct assumption on my part? And if so, when using the KR GPS app. would it make sense for me to choose the 10 - 14# mono category (figuring it would be more stiff than lighter test lines) if I were going to be using 8# fluorocarbon on the rod?

I'm going to be building a drop shot rod for bass that will be seeing time as a light wacky rig worm rod from time to time. It will have a Shimano Saros 3000 F reel mounted on it, using 8# test Tatsu fluorocarbon line.

Also one semi related question. For the particular set up I entered into the GPS software, it calls for a 6L third guide, and the remaining guides being running guides. One of which will be the choke guide, correct? If so ...... would a 5.5L be the proper and logical choice as a choke guide and running guides? I plan on using Fuji TKLAG guides for the guide train.

Any help that can be provided will be much appreciated.

Here's an idea you might try when entering Fluorocarbon line - knowing it is a little more stiff than mono of the same size, enter a value for mono that is a bit higher than what you're actually using in the Fluorocarbon. That way you should be at a value more closely approximates your Flouro.

............

David, I don't do a lot of posts, but I do share a lot of GPS information witrh Mr. Ising. From your imputs and the results I would use the following KL series set-up: a 20H, 10H, 5.5H, with size 5 TKB belly guide and size 5 TK running guides, and tip. This set-up works fine with up to 17lb. Florocarbon line, Good Luck E.P.

Tom, thank you for your response and the confirmation that my thinking was along the same lines. When I put the 10 - 14# mono line selection in, it gave me the larger sized rings I suspected it would. I truly appreciate it.

Ernest. I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question. Thank you. I have additional questions if I may? They're not to question your recomendations, they're just more to help me learn the why's of your recommendations?

First question .... the KR GPS called the exact stripper and second guide that you recommended. But the third guide the GPS recommended, was a 5.5M. Is your recommendation of the slightly taller 5.5H, related to the stiffness of fluorocarbon line?

From my doing a lot of reading of past posts, as well as seeing a presentation on spinning rod guide placement by one of this site's members (Joe Vanfossen) at the Ohio Rod Builders gathering, I've learned that frame height plays a big role in spinning guide choices. As I mentioned earlier .... I'm just trying to learn.

Second question ... As I said in my first post to this thread. I am almost completely clueless when it comes to spinning rods, and their guide trains. So while this may seem like a silly question, I have to ask .... lol I'm assuming the size 5 TKB belly guide you mentioned is the choke guide?

And finally, another question about your recommendation of the TKB guide? I looked up that particular guide and notice it has a quite different look than the TK running guides. I know function should be my primary consideration, but aesthetics are something that I consider as well. I'd like to keep everything looking the same, I guess what I'm asking is ..... how important is the role of the wider guide foot of the TKB in your recommendations? I don't know if it would make a difference in your response, but the blank I will be building on is a Quickline QLSJ782. It's rated as medium light power, with an extra fast action, and the rod will never see braided line. But if the TKB is a must way to go, then I guess I'll bite the bullet, so to speak.

Thanks again for your guys responses. I really do appreciate them. For me, this is going to be a pretty high end build, and I want to do it right. With the KR GPS app, and your suggestions, I'm better than half way there.

5.5M is the same in hight as the "original" 5.5 H. So Ernest was talking about same thing.

The KB guides have a more practical use then aesthtetics...they were projected to be placed on a rod where the pulling forces from the line increase(taken from the tip section) ,roughly in the mid section( or a little bit above) . They have a pretty intuitive name also, the B from the KB is stands for "belly" ...so the longer and wider foot is there to take those bigger pulling forces. After you wrap them on the blank, the visually difference between a KB and a KT is minor.. They are not related with a specific line material but with the forces are coming from the tensioned line...... in my opinion on a ML power rod they are not necessary to be there ( as the forces are not that big that a KT can't handle ) but to be on the safe side I use them ( usually one size up from the rest of the runners to achieve a more shallow transition from the reduction to the runners) and recommend too, because the difference in weight between one KB and KT ( same or even one size up) is so minor that is better to have one there.

Hope I helped you. Good luck :)



Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2015 08:20PM by Mihalyfalvi Gabriel.

We will modify GPS for KR to include the KB and it is great "insurance" in the mid-rod position. It is EXACTLY the same guide as the KT with a bigger foot. Once wrapped they look identical. Ernie is thinking you want to get to micro runners, in which case the 5.5M would be the choice. The 6L would be the suggested guide for a conventional build using size 6 runners. If you are going to 5.5 runners or smaller, use the 5.5M. If you are going to size 6 runners, use the 6L.

Mihalyfalvi , thanks for responding, I really appreciate you taking the time, and you did help. And based on yours and Jim's recommendations and explanations I'll go with the KB.

And Jim, thank you for responding as well. As always, I truly appreciate itYou being in the position you are in, would be the one that would know if the two frames are the same. Their looking different too me is probably because they're different sized guides. And Ernest was right, I do want to go with micro runners.

Just one last thing? The KB is going to the choke guide, Correct? I ask because I'm still not up to speed on all of the terminology, but I'm getting there.

Thanks again you guys. I'm currently waiting for a box to be delivered by mail carrier. It's got two blanks in it. One that I already have the components ordered for. And the other, the blank I'll be building the rod that this thread is about.

I can't wait !!!

Yes , the KB will be the choker.

Have fun with your builds.

Hope you have a chance to try the new POINT Blank in the future.