Hello, I am starting a new casting rod and have a question regarding reel seat sizes. How do I know whether to use a size 17 or size 18 reel seat? I am planning on using a Fuji TCSSD seat, and fuji graphite arbours. My blank dia is 14mm at the top of the reel seat. The size 17 seat has an ID of 17mm and the size 18 of 18mm (I guess that is where the size comes from huh!). Should I get as close a fit as possible between the seat and the blank (and in this case reaming the arbours to a mere 2mm wall thickness) or should I go to the larger size and leave a little more of the arbour? Thanks for any advice.
Nigel

In cases where the inside of the seat is close to the blank size I still prefer tape arbors. Totally cover the arbors and gaps between them with epoxy and you'll essentially create a one piece construction - it has worked very well.

I think if I were going to use an arbor I'd go with a 18 mm seat to get a little more arbor thickness - but I may be off on that.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2015 06:49AM by Marc Morrone.

Hi Nigel,

Both would work out fine; go with what is most comfortable for the person fishing it. If it were me, I only use size 18 seats for my own rods because they are the most comfortable for my hands. If I were building the rod for someone else, I would use the size seat most comfortable for them.

Like Marc, I usually use tape for narrow gaps, but I prefer arbors whenever feasible.

Take care,

Chris

Double post.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2015 07:02AM by Chris Herrera.

x10 on the comments by Marc and Chris.

When only a small gap is required to be filled, I use tape as well. I put bands of tape on the blank of the appropriate thickness to fill the gap. I normally leave about 1/8th of an inch between each band of tape to the next band, so that I have soid epoxy from the blank to the reel seat to insure that I have a good solid blank to reel seat bond. Quick, simple and very effective way to build.

Now, if you are using a reel seat that is cut out on one side so that your fingers can be in constant touch with the blank you now have a situation, where you really need to get the correct diameter reel seat for a slip fit on the blank. If the reel seat is not a slip fit on the blank, you really have a mounting issue with the reel seat that is difficult to overcome with conventional construction methods.

In this case, measure the blank twice and if necessary, get a couple of reel seats that are close, if not exact to the same size as the blank at the location where you wish to mount the reel seat. Then, if necessary, you can slightly ream the reel seat a bit for a perfect slip fit of the reel seat to the blank diameter at the location where the reel seat is to be mounted. For this style reel seat, get an exact fit, or a slightly under size reel seat that can be reamed for a fit. It simply does not work well to try to arbor up a reel seat of this type construction.

By the way, in deference to your choice of materials. I would suggest that you use something other than the Fuji graphite arbors.
The Fuji graphite arbors do work just fine. However, the material used in these Fuji graphite arbors is really rather dense and at times can be rather difficult to ream and or drill out to fit a blank. Yes, when the arbor is finished, the fit is wonderful and the installation is very long lasting.

However, the poly arbors by flex coat are made of a different poly material that still give a very good reel seat installation that is very stable and long lasting. However, the poly arbors are much more user friendly and are much easier to machine and work with for the final finished product.
For example, I have found that if I have to ream or drill out 1/2 of the arbor thickness for a Fuji arbors length of a typical reel seat length, I will end up spending about 15 minutes for the finished product.
However, with the flex coat product, I seldom have to spend more than 2-5 minutes to ream out the equivalent length of this product.

I also concur on the use of the TCSSD reel seat in the size 18 for most casting reel seats, if I am going to use that particular reel seat for the simple comfort value. i.e. the size 18 seat in this style grip simply fits my hand much better than a smaller reel seat.

However, when you speak of some of the other - touch the blank - reel seats that really come in only the size 16, they can be quite comfortable, because they have a different outer size than the TCSSD reel seats. To each his own on product selection.


Your choice.

Guys, thank you all for the advice, and particularly you Roger for taking the time to give me such a detailed response. I think I am going to go with the size 18. One question though, in respect of building up with tape. Does this method ever deteriorate over time. This rod will be used in a very hot climate, and I worry that the adhesive between the layers of tape will go off over time in these conditions.

If I was using a salt water reel with a big reel foot, I'd use the bigger reel seats, whichever one fits the reel, other wise I would use a 16 mm reel seat, especially if I was palming the reel.

Nigel,
You don't have to worry about any deterioration with time, if you follow the idea of using an epoxy line between each band of tape arbor. The epoxy effectively seals each band of tape from the elements and deterioration

The best ergonomics for a spin seat may lead to a size 18, but for casting, maybe not. I've never used a size larger than 16 for casting , but if the cork/grip diameter on the larger cast seats is larger than the cork on a 16, I suggest trying both before building. I once made two casting rods compliant with the ergonomics guidelines for my hand size (9 inches thumb to tip of little finger) and had to sand them down in order to keep them solidly in my hand when casting. I believe the guidelines for spin, but not for cast. It's a different animal.

Thanks Michael. You mention a set of ergonomics guidelines. Excuse my ignorance but where do I find these?

Nigel,
You ask about ergonomics. Here is a short summary of ergonomics and how to optimize your environment to minimize body damage due to poor ergonomics.

[www.unh.edu]

For the case of a fishing rod handle, it simply means that a fishing rod handle is ergonomic correct, if; by its design and implementation, there is minimum stress on the hand and wrist joints and muscles.

i.e. just like the fairy tale - Goldilocks and the three bears - A rod handle can be too small, can be too big, or can be just right.

The shape of the grip can be incorrect for the palm, can be incorrect for the wrist, such that the shape causes a bad angle for the wrist.

The idea of the best fishing rod grip, and reel seat, is a reel seat that can be used for hours on end, with minimum fatigue by the user, as well as minimum stress on the joints. Both of these things can lead to carpel tunnel syndrome.

Any thing that involves repetitive motion, like casting a fishing rod can lead to damage. The damage will be worse if the best ergonomic shape for the users hands, palms, arms and wrists have not been implemented into the design of the fishing rod, grip etc.

Take care

Nigel,
Here is a picture of a "wrist saver" fishing rod.

[www.wristsaverrods.com]

Notice that with the angled handle, that the entire wrist remains perfectly straight and the grip natural. A perfect ergonomic reel grip.

A different implementation of a ergonomic design for a fishing rod:

[www.fish-e-grip.com]


I know that when I have been fishing for a long time with a spinning reel, I will often hold the rod by holding the reel body, since by holding it there, I do not have to bend my wrist to hold the rod.

Take care

Nigel, Rodmaker Magazine Volume 10 Issue 3.

I cannot quote the whole article, of course, but the bottom line is that for optimum ergonomics the spinning grip should be much larger than what we normally use, but that would be impractical. I can tell you from my perspective that for my hand size, 9 inches from pinky tip to thumb tip, 7 3/4 from wrist crease to middle finger tip, a size 16 spin seat is too small for comfortable fishing. Size 17 is nice, a size 18 is perfect. But, a size 18 is heavier, so I usually use a 17, and with my switching rods during the day, between spin and baitcast, 17 works fine FOR MY HAND SIZE.

For techniques requiring higher loads, like retrieving high resistance lures, like big lip cranks, or trolling with the rod in the hand, ergonimics is more important, and the grip size should go up.

But for baitcast I only use size 16. When I swelled the grips, even on the size 16, into a larger diameter than the rear diameter of the reel seat I couldn't control the rod well on the cast, so I sanded them down. I think the right shape is important on BC too, and the St Croix shape is very good. Roger has proposed a shape that he feels is even better-he may describe it to you. Palming the reel on retrieve will lead you to a smaller BC reel seat size, too.