I have just started making carbon graphite handles; none in use yet.

So far I have only used the carbon graphite sleeve. I bought everything I have used so far from Riley rods. I followed Mike's u-tube video and written instructions for putting the handles together.

I have not been able to get Riley rods to answer these questions; maybe I asked for too much at one time.
1.) what sleeve does Riley Rods use to get the uniform jagged colors on some of their handles?
1a.) am I correct in assuming that one type of material absorbs color while the other does not?

2.) What type of sleeve material will give the best uniform base color to allow marbleizing? I would like to make a light colored handle that will still show the weave pattern after the light colored base coat is applied; maybe this is not possible?

3.) The epoxy I received from Riley Rods for handle construction gives the most air bubble free epoxy I have found so far. Has anyone had good luck with using this epoxy for rod wrapping?

These questions were all answered in the original article on the process found in the Volume 10 #6 issue of RodMaker Magazine.

The colored sleeves are fiberglass and/or kevlar. They do not absorb color. If you want to paint/color the grip, you apply a pigment to your top coating finish.

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The epoxy used for the grips is not suitable for wraps as it cures much more brittle the the wrap specific epoxy.

To my knowledge the only light colored fiber sleeving is the white fiberglass that Riley has.

I have gotten some very nice coloring effects using the black carbon fiber and the spraying Testors "transparent colors" on the first coat of epoxy, then applying the subsequent coats over it. Obviously I do not use the shrink film method of finishing the grips.

Rex - Some of the photo's on Riley's website are pre-dyed glass/carbon.
Use of the natural glass/carbon weave (Riley's "Mybrid" sleeve) allows you the option of painting the core after it's been sealed, and that color will show through only the glass strands when you wet-out the sleeve. I do a lot of those. Alternatively, if you want to marble over a uniform base that is not carbon, you can use the all fiberglass sleeve, and either paint the core before wetout, or use powder pigment in your epoxy during wetout. Or simply paint as Phil mentions. I think Mike makes his all-white grips by using a cream core or painting core white, and using a white liquid epoxy tint during wetout. I've marbled a few over carbon after the wetout had cured and I sanded it down a bit (sand wetout coat, apply a thin coat of epoxy, apply marble pigment), but I'm not crazy about the results. unless you are willing to sand again and risk ruining your marble, it leaves the grip lumpy, and I always felt like I needed to add yet another layer of epoxy to help smooth. I prefer to keep the epoxy thin, and use Mr. Kirkman's permagloss technique to finish.

Tom could you email the article from Volume 10 #6 issue of Rod Maker Magazine. I was not receiving the magazine when that issue was released.

Thanks
Frank

Tom never mind I realized I could go to Rod Maker Magazine site and order that issue so I did but thanks anyway.