I have a customer that has asked me to rebuild a 15' float rod and he wants me to sand the blank to its natural co
lor, if I do this is there anything I need to do to the blank to seal it or can I leave it bare ???
Thank you
gord

Gord,

Some people that have a sanded blank will apply a coat of wax.

Don

Don Becker

Don is there a proper wax to use?

I would not "sand" it back to its natural color. I would strip the paint off then if needed use a scotch bright pad to wet sand and of the stubborn areas.

If you use the search function and put in words to;tripping blanks or sanding banks or both you should get lots of useful info. I remove the paint off many blanks. But don't see a need to wax them afterwards.

I was told by Lamiglas that it was not necessary to put anything on a sanded blank, but if I wanted I could apply carnuba wax. I was inquiring about graphite, not sure about glass. I wouldn't wax it before it was complete.

Lynn Behler Wrote:
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> I was told by Lamiglas that it was not necessary to put anything on a sanded blank, but if I wanted I could apply carnuba wax.

The quality of Lamiglas rods may surpass that of other manufacturers. They have been in business for 50 or 60 years. They use the proper type and quantity of heat shrink necessary to ensure proper epoxy flow throughout the carbon fibers of the blank. This is not always the case with some manufacturers. Once I received a shipment of blanks (not Lamiglas) that had numerous pin holes in the finish. This indicated porous material under the finish.

While the statement may be accurate for Lamiglas blanks, it may or may not apply to blanks made by all manufacturers.

>I was inquiring about graphite, not sure about glass.

I am not sure either

>I wouldn't wax it before it was complete.

I wouldn't either.

Here's a point of interest (for some).

I have a friend who ocean fishes from a kayak. He accepts that guides will corrode. As such he buys less expensive guides and replaces them when needed. To make the guide replacement easier, he will build the rod, including tiptop, and then wax and buff the blank. He then wraps the guides over the waxed blank. I do not know the type of wax he uses or how tightly he wraps the guides. Obviously, over tight may crush the blank.

Don Becker

Also waxing with the wrong wax may just give you fisheyes unless using CP

Bill - willierods.com

Personally, I would not wax the blank before wrapping. To me that is just asking for a problem with the wraps and finish on them. To begin with there is not even a need for waxing. The blank is impregnated with resin and hardener that are impermeable to water. If you want to wax, after your wrapping and finish is fully cured, that is fine. You can also re-coat the blank before wrapping with something like Perma-gloss. A better option.

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
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> Personally, I would not wax the blank before wrapping. To me that is just asking for a problem with the wraps and finish on them.

As I thought that I pointed out, it was a personal decision based on ease of future replacement of guides. Since my fishing conditions are not horribly adverse, I would not do it either.

> To begin with there is not even a need for waxing. The blank is impregnated with resin and hardener that are impermeable to water.

The presence of pinholes in the finish indicate the resin did not fully permeate the carbon fiber. I called the company that shipped me the blanks and was informed that they did not have sufficiently strong cellophane to do the job and had later ordered the proper materials. Simply stated, every manufacturer does not necessarily do the quality of work expected.

> If you want to wax, after your wrapping and finish is fully cured, that is fine.

>You can also re-coat the blank before wrapping with something like Perma-gloss. A better option.

Don

Don Becker