From what i have read i see split grips are popular with the bass fisherman. What bass fishing technique, if any that you might prefer no split grip and why?

Thanks,
Roger

Split grips are a bit lighter and give a little extra space for adding bling. Other than that, it's the users preference.

I prefer a full rear grip for two handed casting of larger heavier baits like frogs and large crankbaits , and use split grips for about everything else.

Some split grips can be a pain in colder weather. The fighting butt, especially ones made of EVA, have a way fo grabbing loose or bulky clothes.
Very thin rods can look a bit anorexic with a split grip, but that's more of an aesthetic opinion than a problem.

Jim,

Out of curiosity, how long are your butt grips typically on a split grip rod? Even though most of my personal rods have prefab butt grips, the ones that put together or turn are long enough for the whole hand to be on the grip and I like them a bit better that way. I think too many split grips are designed with aesthetics put before function. Many of my personal rods have prefab butt grips that are a little short. They haven't annoyed me enough to start stripping rods, but it crosses my mind from time to time.

As far as applications for full grips, I'm not sure of many for me. Maybe if I ever feel a need to build a BIG swimbait rod or an A-rig rod that has a handle long enough to tuck between the arm and ribs, maybe. Even then a split grip with well considered dimensions will likely work.

Joe

Edit: Forgot of one big application for full grips on my rods. Any casting rod I build that is 6'3" or shorter will have a full length butt grip, because at that point, the split is gone, or nearly gone. Spinning rods at those lengths will still have a split TN handle.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2015 05:51PM by Joe Vanfossen.

A few years ago, I made a couple of split grips out of the short handles that came in kits.
The resulting split handles looked like what I thought I was seeing in tackle shops
However, I also found that, for my liking, the rear grip needed more dimension to it..
Those early attempts have been stripped off and larger diameter butts attached.

I agree with Joe and often turn my split grips a bit larger than prefabs.

I have never seen the need (function) of a split grip. To me they are an effort on the part of the custom rod builder or rod mfg. to save money. Good quality cork is after all fairly expensive. What possible functional purpose I have yet to figure out. Weight? I don't think so. A few more cork rings or a few inches of EVA in the handle is not going to make two cents work of difference in the ability of the rod to cast or fight a fish. Then again, Billy Vivona calls me a dinosaur!! LOL

Randolph,

I'll flip the question on you. What purpose does 2"+ of cork in the rear grip and a fore grip that are never touched in a fishing situation serve other than to make the rod builder money through selling more cork?

When combined with other weight/inertia saving measures, such as using the smallest guides applicable to the situation, leaving off long decorative wraps, removing excess material from the reel seat, etc., a rod that is significantly lighter and more responsive can be built. Taken individually, each of those measures (with the exception of the guide train), will have a negligible impact on the performance of a rod, but when taken as a sum of parts, a very real and significant difference can be seen/felt.

I'll never say any way of building a rod is wrong, and I appreciate the artistry of many rod builders, but those things are added by trading off some level of rod performance.

Now, I'm off of my soapbox and want to say thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom with all of us. I'm pretty sure you've been building longer than I've been around, and I always listen up when you have something to say.

Joe

OK

What about ballance If you have a 7 7'5 rod and you build with cork or even EVA The rod will be tip heavy It is the nature of the beast
So why use it Then a lot o gee I need a weighten butt to ballance my rod
So like said use longer sections of a HEAVER Matierial like the composit cork I would think more weight on and after the seat will help to ballance the rod Even wood Ya will have to have some set up and place on the butt and see if they are heavy enough But then It is a Custom Rod
Unless ya like weighted butts

Bill - willierods.com

A split grip rod with weight hidden in the butt of the rod will be lighter than one with a full grip that is balanced. By placing the weight as far from the fulcrum as possible, it will have a greater torque on the rod. Adding a section of material centered over the center of the grip section has only half the torque as the same mass added to the butt of the grip. If a balanced rod is desired, it can be done and still result in a lighter more efficient rod than one built with a full grip and balanced.

I tend not to balance my personal rods, but if I feel the need to, I can do it.

Joe

So you are saying the weight should be added to the very butt and not add any after the seat

Bill - willierods.com

I'm saying that if you want a balanced rod, the finished product will be lighter if the weight added to balance the rod is added at the butt of the rod.

If you are using a full grip purely for the sake of balance, you are adding weight to the wrong place on the rod.

There are reasons to use a full grip, but balance should not be the primary reason for using one.

I'm saying that if you want a balanced rod, the finished product will be lighter if the weight added to balance the rod is added at the butt of the rod.

If you are using a full grip purely for the sake of balance, you are adding weight to the wrong place on the rod.

There are reasons to use a full grip, but balance should not be the primary reason for using one.

Joe you and I think so/do much alike it is almost scary or maybe it should scare you any way.

Randolph; with very few exceptions I only use graphite for handles and is is absolutely easier to NOT do a split grip. Takes double the work to split things and mill the arbors to support them, 5 arbors verses 2 with a solid handle.
My reasons split grips are for performance only.

Like Joe I don't use them on rods shorter then six ft. I do use them on long rods for big crank baits, swim baits, and A-rigs.

Out side of short rods the only times I'll use full grips are for:
1- identification- When competing I will have so many rods on the deck 25-30 that having a couple full gripped rods makes it easier to identify them when looking through the stack, and I always throw the same type of baits on the rods so I know what I'm picking up when I reach for the handle.

2- Balance- using a full grip allows me to eliminate 3 arbors which makes the butt section of the rod lighter. Which I prefer for tip down type retrieves, for the same reason I prefer butt heavier (tip light) rods for tip up slack line retrieves.

2- Experimentation- Example: like the look of wood handles butt not the weight, so sometimes will use full grips for wood veneer applications creating the best of both words. Wood look- Graphite lightness, and sensitivity.

I think that generally the single biggest advantage of split grips is to save money on grip components.

Cork prices have increased many times in the last few years, and the increased cost of cork is really reflected in the total component cost of a long cork grip compared to the same length handle in a split grip configuration.

Be safe

If you are saving money by using less cork, you might want to give yourself a raise.
It takes much longer to mount and finish a split grip.

A lighter grip improves the balance for tip down fishing. I use split grips for spoon and spinner fishing for salmon, but I imagine that they would be good for spinnerbaits or other topwater applications.

Steve, thanks for your last post, it made me think of rod balance in a way I have not considered.

Joe has hit it on the head as far needing less weight to balance a rod if the weight is added at the butt. And I know that a few grams or ounces of weight saved in a split grip may not seem like it would make a difference in a days fishing. But consider 1,000 + casts a day, and even a half an ounce of weight can make a big difference. Especially if an extended arm technique like flipping is being used.

And as was mentioned earlier, Full grips if the majority of the casts made will be done with two hands. Crankbaits, Carolina rigs, Swimbaits etc.