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First Rod
Posted by: Michael Dahl (---.smumn.edu)
Date: March 20, 2015 10:24AM

Hello,

I mainly musky fish, but before the season opens here in MN or when I’m out with those who don’t like to fish for musky I’ll also go for bass, panfish, and maybe a stray walleye. I wanted 1 spinning rod and 1 casting rod that I could just keep in the locker for when need be, but while the boat I fish out of says it holds 7’ rods, you have to bend them to get them into the locker due to the lip support for the lid. I decided to look for something around 6’10” but they aren’t very common; so this got me thinking about going the custom route and making my own rods. I'm sure it's easier said then done...

My biggest question is if it’s better to shorten a blank 2” in the butt section or add 4” to it, which will affect the rod the least? I’m probably looking at a ML for the spinning rod and M for the casting rod. I know 1 setup isn’t optimal for all situations but I’d like to try and get as close to it as possible since I simply don’t have the money or desire to invest in rods that won’t see a lot of action other than the month of May.

Thanks for any incite.
Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2015 12:36PM by Michael Dahl.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: March 20, 2015 10:47AM

Shortening the rod will result in a little slower action. Extending it will create a faster action.

Shortening is easier to do. Lengthening will require a bit more work.

......................

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Victor Heal (199.254.158.---)
Date: March 20, 2015 10:48AM

Deleting 2" will make a Ml into a mh ish....huge difference. By extending it you keep the power the same but make the overall rod faster action.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: John E Powell (---.dynamic.wnyric.org)
Date: March 20, 2015 12:30PM

Michael,

Remove 2" from the butt, not the tip. You're unlikely to notice any difference at all.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Donald R Campbell (---.lsanca.fios.verizon.net)
Date: March 20, 2015 12:35PM

Michael,

I would not worry about having to bend a 7' rod to get it into a rock locker, within reason. The rod locker on my boat supposedly only holds rods up to 7' long; but I put rods that are 7'-2" and 7'-4" in it all of the time. Just do it slowly and they'll slide it. Deflect the tip on the bottom of the rod locker as you slowly slide it in to shorten the overall length.

I would give it a try before getting into cutting a blank so it will fit a rod locker.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Michael Dahl (---.smumn.edu)
Date: March 20, 2015 12:38PM

I should have clarified in my original post that I am aware removing from the tip will affect the rod and that I was looking at removing it from the butt.

I do have a 7' rod right now and every time I put it in I'm afraid it's going to snap. I know rods are meant to bend, my concern comes from bending the rod opposite of the way it's built to bend so that I'm not putting pressure on the tip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2015 12:41PM by Michael Dahl.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Lance Dupre (---.lightspeed.nworla.sbcglobal.net)
Date: March 20, 2015 12:43PM

Why remove anything from the blank. There are hundreds of models of blanks available in the 6'8" to 6'10" lengths. Another thing not mentioned that if you trim a blank either way mos if not all warranties are voided. It's much easier finding a blank in the length you want than trying to figure out which end you want to cut.

Lance

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: John Shear (199.19.250.---)
Date: March 20, 2015 02:24PM

Hello Michael, welcome to the group. I'm still a novice, but I had that length situation arise with a friend so I used a wooden handle kit from a wonderful fellow in MN. The spinning handle is 8" and it's drilled out 4" deep. When I put that on a 6'6" blank I have a 6'10" rod. Trimming is trivial, but in this case I avoided it.
I won't say the handle maker's name since he's not a sponsor here, but if you make your un-hide your email address (in your profile) or PM me, I'll give it to you.

If you use a rod sleeve for each rod, they'll slide in and out easily and not risk snagging or damage.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Roger Templon (---.atlanticbb.net)
Date: March 20, 2015 04:43PM

American Tackle Co, Batson Rainshadow, Liberty (Get Bit), Phenix, & St Croix all list 6'8" blanks. A T C, Fuji, Phenix, MHX, & St Criox list 6'9" blanks. Batson Rainshadow, MHX, & St. Croix all list 6'10" blanks. All of the above list blanks in these lengths that would be right in the groove for bass & walleye.
Rog

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Ryan McBride (---.hsd1.wa.comcast.net)
Date: March 20, 2015 06:04PM

Here is our website to find the blank you are looking for. www.rainshadowrodblanks.com and www.northforkcomposites.com

R. McBride

Batson Enterprises
BatsonEnterprises.com | RainShadowRodBlanks.com | ALPSForeCast.com | Build2Fish.com

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Michael Dahl (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 20, 2015 09:27PM

Swampland Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Why remove anything from the blank. There are
> hundreds of models of blanks available in the 6'8"
> to 6'10" lengths. Another thing not mentioned that
> if you trim a blank either way mos if not all
> warranties are voided. It's much easier finding a
> blank in the length you want than trying to figure
> out which end you want to cut.


The problem I'm running into is there are way more 6'6" and 7' blanks out there then 6'9" - 6'10" blanks out there and those that I do find don't seem to be the right combination of power and action, like I'm finding pleanty of 6'9" XF blanks but I'm looking for MF or F blank. Perhaps I'm just not looking in the right places, I've mainly been looking at mudhole, and their rod blank search link doesn't seem to work.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Ken Preston (---.opera-mini.net)
Date: March 21, 2015 08:22AM

One thing you have to keep in mind is that EVERY manufacturer can call ANY blank ANYTHING they like there is no common standard for most rod blanks. What is listed as XF for one company can be F for another -- and Medium Fast means NOTHING at all. Consider even your own classifications of XF F etc. What does that mean? Percentage of the rod that bends from the tip? Rate of recovery after a cast? Effort needed (snap cast)? All much too indefinite. Your best bet is to call one of the distributors (or two) to the left who can better help you with your selection - if you can explain what you want in terms that you both can agree upon. Personally I would start with line and lure weight - since those are measurements that you know and go from there. As above there are plenty of blanks in the 6-8 6-9 and 6-10 that will likely work for you without cutting the blank.

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Joe Vanfossen (---.neo.res.rr.com)
Date: March 21, 2015 02:05PM

Michael,

I'm willing to bet a 1/4-5/8 oz. blank from the popping line of your choice of manufacturer and a 1/4-5/8 oz. blank from the spin jig or spin bass line of your choice of manufacturer will get the job done. If they come in at 7', take 2" off the butt, the tip will still behave the same. The penalty is that you are losing a small amount of lifting power which will likely be negligible in your case.

Use the popping blank with the reel that you prefer for crank baits and other treble hook lures and the spin jig/spin bass blank for single hook lures.

These choices will cover many applications. The only drawback is neither will be the preferred choice in very heavy cover, but for fishing around the edges of cover and in or around open water, they will get the job done.

Joe

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Garry Thornton (---.natsow.res.rr.com)
Date: March 21, 2015 02:50PM

Others pointed out that there are 6'8" - 6'10" choices out there.
Personally I wouldn't bother trying to get max length, I'd just build a couple of 6'6" blanks. There are places where 2 or 3 inches might be a big deal, but a fishing rod isn't one of them.
On the other hand, if you simply must have some exact length, go with a 6'6" and an extension or crop 2" off the butt of a 7 foot blank.

Choose the action you want, and don't get bogged down in the theoretical changes that any minor alteration to the butt might have on the action. I am sure these changes are real, to Engineers and Mathematics, but on the water it's just hot air, in my opinion. No one agonizes over using a 10 inch handle versus a 7 or 8 inch handle.
Why not? Isn't it the same two or three inches of working length?

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: Bill Eshelman (---.lightspeed.bcvloh.sbcglobal.net)
Date: March 23, 2015 10:33AM

Most of the sponsors to the left can set you up with exactly what you need, Batsons, Bingham Enterprise, ,MudHole, Swampland, Utmost Ent. etc.
Tell them The Ohio Rod Builders sent you.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

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Re: First Rod
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 23, 2015 03:27PM

Michael,
Rather than shorten rods, I would suggest that you do what ever is necessary to increase the length of your rod locker, or store the rod vertically so you have no issues with length.

Any locker can be modified, and or a vertical rod rack can be obtained for vertical rod storage.

I personally dislike the use of rod lockers for the very reason that you mention.

I agree 100% that you should not be bending a rod blank at all when you put it away in a rod locker.

Change the lid, change the locker interior, move the locker or do what ever else is necessary to allow you to store your rods as needed with no bends in the blank and enjoy your 7, 8 or 9 foot rods that you want to use.

For example, one of these with the appropriate base selection will allow you to easily store any rod vertically with no blank bending.

[www.cabelas.com]

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