This is my first post to Rodbuilding.org, Last year I replaced the guides on 3 of my rods, and I loved the feeling of satisfaction I got out of doing it. I can't even imagine the feeling I will have when fishing with a rod that I built from the ground up. I'm looking to build a pitching/flipping stick for bass, and am looking for thoughts on which blank to use.

I've narrowed my choices down to a Rainshadow Immortal series IMMC72 MH blank, or an MHX High Mod Gen2 HM MB844 blank. I guess what I'm after is the opinions of those in the know when it comes to sensitivity, power, and durability. I say durability not because I mistreat my equipment, but because when fishing tournaments I pretty much boat flip any fish 3#'s or under. I don't routinely high stick a fish into the boat, but sometimes it just happens.

So if anyone has had experience with both blanks I mentioned, and can give me their impressions of them, I would greatly appreciate it. Or even if someone were to have a suggestion for another blank that I may want to look at. Those suggestions would be welcomed as well. I will say I don't want to spend over $150 for a blank, though.

Thanks in advance !!!

If you already know that you "boat flip" fish and your rod gets high sticked, make sure to use sufficient guides along the rod to ensure the line doesn't pass below the rod blank and create a bow string type effect. Having a few extra guides along the upper 1/2 of the rod won't necessarily eliminate breakage from high sticking, but it can help a bit.

...................

Thank you for the tip Tom. I will definitely be doing a static load test to help me determine guide placement. And if needed, I'll definitely add a guide or two if it will help guard against possible rod breakage. In addition to my question concerning the rod blanks I'm considering, I'd like to add another question about performing a static load test.

Last year when replacing the guides on the rods I mentioned earlier, I used the procedure as described on Fuji's Angler Resource web page. One of the rods was a spinning rod, the other two were casting rods. The one casting rod I replaced the guides on was a fast action, medium power rod, and I had no fear of pulling the tip top off the end of the rod, because the lighter powered rod didn't require a lot of weight to get the blank to bend to the proper angle for the test. The other rod however, was a fast action heavy power rod, and I was afraid to put the required bend in the blank, because I was afraid of pulling the tip top off the end of the rod. I still adjusted the placement of the guides with the rod blank under pressure, but not entirely to the point of where it should have been.

I use Flex Coat's tip top adhesive, and had perfectly fitting tip tops .... is pulling the tip top off while doing a static load test, something I should be worried about?

Please forgive me if this seems like a stupid question. As I said, I'm new to rod building and a bit OCD when it comes to doing things right.

Thanks in advance for any opinions, and once again. Thank you for the tip, Tom.

My recommendation would not be in the HM range due to the boat flipping, I'd look at the FP885-MHX

[www.mudhole.com]


Regards,

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

Todd .... thank you for the suggestion, I appreciate it very much. I suppose I shouldn't have said I don't mistreat my equipment, as high sticking a rod while landing a fish is definitely rod abuse.

My reason for wanting to build on an Immortal or an HM blank is for the sensitivity they're supposed to have. I rarely if ever use braided line, so the rod blanks sensitivity is very important to me. The two rods I use for flipping and pitching currently are a 6'6" G Loomis GL2 fast action, heavy power, and a 7' Shimano Crucial extra fast action, heavy power. Both rods are older, with the G Loomis being about 7 years old, and the Shimano Crucial being 3 years old. Both rods are pretty sensitive, with the Crucial being slightly more sensitive than the GL2, but I was looking for more.

I guess what I'm asking is ..... is the rod blank you suggested as an alternative to the HM series of blanks, going to be any more sensitive than the two rods I just mentioned? If need be, I could adjust my fishing landing tatics in favor of a more sensitive blank. And thanks again for your post. It is very much appreciated.

Check out the Phenix Ultra MB and M1 series as well. I build most of my personal bass rods on these blanks. I'm not one to baby my equipment and have yet to have a problem with these blanks. With that said, I also have some Rainshadow and MHX blanks and they are great blanks.

Hey Joel, thanks for suggesting the Phenix blanks. Like you, I can't say I baby my equipment, so durability is something I definitely have to consider.

I checked their blanks out on their web site and in the Mudhole catalog, and they seem like something I'd be looking for. Do you have a preference of one of the blanks series you suggested, over the other? While the rod I plan on building will be used mostly for flipping and pitching jigs and creature baits, it will probably see some time as a frog rod, as well. The two blanks I'd probably be interested in from Phenix would be either the UMBX-700H-B from the Ultra series, or the MX72H-B from the M1 series.

Not being familiar with Phenix rods, I went on to Tackle Warehouse's web site to read some customer reviews of their factory built rods, and even though I know some reviews can be a bit ..... overboard, the M1 series got rave reviews. More than a couple of the reviews for the M1 series were for a rod with the same blank that I assume I'd be getting if I were to purchase the MX72H blank that I mentioned earlier.

I have to say that after you mentioning the M1 blanks and reading the reviews from Tackle Warehouse, the M1 may be the blank I'm looking for.

Thanks again for the idea, and please feel free to share any other input you may have on Phenix blanks that you may have.

Funny that you mentioned the MX-72H, I'm placing an order for it this weekend. I'm partial to the M1 series myself as they tend to be lighter than the MBX. One of my favorite rods that i currently have is the MX-S72M built as a casting rod. I have an Alps Text-Touch seat with micro guides that are spiral wrapped. I use it for shakey heads and swear it's the most sensative rod that I've used. I'm hoping for equal results with the MX-72H. I'm planning on building it the same except I'll be using the new Alps MVT seat.

Sounds great Joel. The more I've researched Phenix rods, the more I'm becoming convinced that the M1 blank is the one for me. That's not to say I haven't read excellent reviews on rods built using the Rainshadow, or MHX blanks I am considering. It's just that I've been able to find more information on Phenix rods, because of their having factory built models.

I like that you mentioned using micro guides for your builds. I'm still trying to decide on my guide train. The two things I have decided on are using a conventional guide layout, and Fuji concept guides. The decisions I'm left with are whether I'm going to go with titanium frames with Silicone Carbide rings, or stainless steel frames with Alconite rings. The final decision is whether to go with micro guides, or not.

I've looked back through past threads on this web site and found quite a bit of information about micro guides and their stated advantages over a more conventional guide size. Although it seems that micro guides are on their way to becoming conventional. I'd be interested in hearing your reason for going with micro guides. Evidently you feel they warrant being used, or you wouldn't use them for your personal rod builds. I'm just curious as what you find desireable about them? Also, is the micro guide concept something you carry throughout the entire guide train, or is is something you just use on the running portion of the blank?

Sorry for all the additional questions. It's just that I want to gather as much information as I can before I make my final decisions. BTW .... I checked out that MVT reel seat you mentioned. That looks sweet. Yet another of your mentionings that I'm giving serious consideration to.

Thanks again for all your help. I truly appreciate it.

.

David,

Which ever blank you decide to go with, I would suggest going with the Fuji Alconite / Stainless Steel guides. IMHO: The SIC / Titanium guides are expensive and overkill for a flipping stick as the blanks tend to be heavier than say a finesse rod. The Alconites will work fine with braided line as well. If you are going to use micro guides & braided line with a top shot I would recommend going no smaller than say a 5 mm guide, as you will have trouble passing a knot through 4 mm guides. I know, I built my 8' flipping stick with 4 mm guides and it bugs me to flip if I have wound the knot into the guides.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2015 02:26PM by Donald R Campbell.

Don, thank you for the response. In my original post, I mentioned replacing the guides on three of my rods last year. I used the Alconite guides as replacements, and I like them a lot, And even though all the rods ended up with more guides on them, than were on them from the factory, the rods cast better and seem more responsive than they were with the old guides.

I definitely hear what you're saying concerning the cost of the SIC/ Titanium guides. In pricing the guides that I think I'd need, I came up with a price of $90 for 10 guides and tip top. I've all but committed to using a Phenix M1 blank for the build, and it only retails for $99 through Mudhole. From a price standpoint the cost of the guide train in relationship to that of the blank is probably considered overkill, but would it be from a performance standpoint?

Through research, and just general aquired knowledge, I understand that guide train weight plays a major role in a rods responsiveness and the completed rod's sensitivity. I'm looking to maximize sensitivity. That's why I've given consideration to going with titanium frames. It really has nothing to do with SIC rings, as I have complete confidence that Alconite rings would stand up to anything I can possibly throw at them. I'm just looking to build the lightest guide train I can. Especially in the running guide portion of the rod.

If I can, I'd like to ask you if you used static loading in determining your guide placement, and how many additional guides did you find you needed to add as a result of using micro guides? I rarely if ever use a leader when fishing with braid, and if I do it's usually a max of about 4' so a knot passing through a guide will only happen if I have to actually make a cast with the rod. In that case I'd most likely just put that rod down, and pick up another rod.

Once again, thank you for your response. You and everyone else have been very helpful. I'm going to continue checking this thread for comments, but I'll be starting a new thread concerning guide trains. If you decide to post further comments regardless of which thread, I would gladly accept and consider any and all comments you'd care to share.

Thanks again, Hopefully someday I can repay the favor to all that have helped shorten my learning curve when it comes to buidling rods. I am going to love this new hobby !!!

David,

Yes, I static load every rod I build. I normally start with the recommended guide layout from the manufacturer and tie the guides on with elastic thread, (It make the guides easy to shifted based on the static load results). I have found with micro guides I usually end up adding at least one if not two additional guides. The height of the micro guides normally require additional guides. I always order, (if not in my inventory), one of two additional running guides. When I pick up a store bought rod and load it with a line running through the guides I'll show it's owner "that is why you buy a custom rod" and not one the manufacturer is trying to keep labor costs down with insufficient guide layout.

As for sensitivity, as you state above, ("looking to maximize sensitivity"), try the new Fuji Torzite guides. They are simple amazing on how light they are and the ring opening size is larger than say a SIC or Alconite for the same size guides. A 4 mm Torzite Guide would probably work fine for running guides, even with braide & top shot, on a flipping stick. I have built just one rod with Fuji Torzite guides and I could not believe how outstanding they were / are. I've only had one customer who was willing to spring for the extra bucks for Torzite guides. I built him a 6'-10" shaky- head casting rod and here is the guides used with wholesale pricing:

TKBTG-6J………………………………………………………………………… 7.59
TKBTG-5J………………………………………………………………………… 6.69
TKBTG-4.5J………………………………………………………………………. 6.29
TKBTG-4J, (3 x $5.89 ea.)……………………………………………………… 17.69
TKTTG-4J, (5 x $5.49 ea.)…………………………………………………….... 27.45
Tip Top TFCTT Micro Top - 4 Ring, 4.5 Tube ……………………………...... 11.99
$ 77.70

Not inexpensive; but, oh so sweet

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2015 02:16PM by Donald R Campbell.

Don, thank you for the reply. I feel silly for asking you if you use static load to determine number of guides and guide placement. I honestly knew you did, I just didn't know a way of asking you how many more guides you found yourself needing. My apologies for that stupid question.

I looked at the Torzite ring guides. When I saw the price I about ..... well..... you know what I mean. lol I didn't price them at the time but just did based on a suggestion of guide sizes that I got from another member in a guide train thread I started. When I priced the Titanium/SIC ring guides in the original combination I was contemplaiting, the set including tip top, I came up with a cost of a little more than $90. High, but not completely out of the question. But that was with larger guides for all but the running position guide size of 5's that you suggested to me. I just priced the new combination of sizes with the Torzite guides you just mentioned. $110 including tip top. Going with Torzite in a different size combination only resulted in a $20 difference. That's about half of what a spool of Tatsu fluorcarbon line costs. Again, not completely out of the question

Interesting that you mention the ID of the a Torzite ring, because it's something I noticed and thought about it allowing the use of a smaller guide and still having the same ring ID. It's just like being able to use a higher # test fluorocarbon line, versus a standard mono filament line for crankbaits, because the line sinks. You don't lose depth because of the added line diameter.

But .... the Torzite ringed guides are almost double the price of the guides I'll probably end up using. If I were building on a North Fork Composites blank, I wouldn't have a care about an extra $55 for guides. But as you quoted what I said earlier ... I do want maximum sensitivity. I can see I may have some cost justifying to do. I don't know if you've read the other thread I started about guides, but one of the guides I mentioned considering were the TK series. Titanium frames with Alconite rings. Do you have any experience with those particular guides? If so, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts. It was suggested that I go with two TKWAG's in the butt guide and first guide up positions, sizes 8 and 6 respectively. And the rest of the guides TKTAG in either size 5 or size 4. I planned on going with 5's. As I said a minute ago, I'd be interested in your thoughts if any, on those guides and that combination of sizes.

Don, I really appreciate the time you've taken to respond. I've been addicted to bass fishing for years, and I've been making some of my own baits for years as well. I get no better feeling than when catching a fish on a bait I've made. I can't even imagine the feeling I'll get from catching fish on a rod I've made. I knew I was going to get addicted to this stuff from the very first coat of LS I put on a guide wrap last year. lol

Thanks again for all your help kind sir.

Update from my guide thread. This suggestion comes from Tom Kirkman. A size 12 at the butt guide position, followed by an 8 and then 5's the rest of the way out.

As I said in the other thread..... I love this place !!!! lol



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2015 04:35PM by David Baylor.

David,

The alconites with titanium frames would work perfectly. They are very light, (not as light as the Torzites), but very light. Perhaps you could also give the Pac Bay Minima guides a try. As mentioned in your other thread, they are light and very inexpensive. I have built drop-shot rods with them and they worked great.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Hi David Baylor,
Here is an independant person that wrote a review on another forum. He has used every competitors products and this is what he wrote:

Enjoy!


Batson Immortal/Eternity Review/Impressions
Postby XXXXXXX » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:20 am

I need to get a few things out of the way. I don’t keep measurements on every rod I build, I prefer plain rod builds, dont get crazy with wraps or winding checks. I mostly build for myself, some for clients, and friends and family. I’m an avid fisherman, I try to get out at least once a week. I don’t fish many tournaments but I like to have nice equipment.

I’ve been in the market for some new rods and I’ve been pretty intrigued by the new Rainshadow blanks; specifically the Immortal and Eternity2 series. I couldn’t find much information on them on the web, so I decided to bite the bullet and order a couple to try for myself.

Not knowing anything about these blanks, I decided to contact Batson. I knew I wanted one to be a finesse spinning rod for drop shotting and shaky head techniques. One blank that caught my eye was the Eternity2 610M/XF spinning rod. It was very refreshing to talk to a sales person at Batson that was very candid with me. He actually talked me out of that particular model. He told me that during testing they had a few breaks due to improper handling, (high sticking, trying to boat flip big fish) and let me know it was a very technique specific blank. He pointed me into the direction of the 610M in the Immortal series for the aforementioned techniques. We also talked a bit about the Eternity series of rods. I mentioned that I really enjoy bottom contact techniques, especially texas rigs and jigs and he recommended the ETEC72M.

To be honest, I wasn’t really familiar with Batson or any of their different brand of products. The sales person let me know they basically produce everything to put a rod together, blanks, guides, grips, etc. Honestly I appreciated the way he approached it, he wasn’t pushy, there was no hard sell, we were just having a conversation.

After this conversation I figured I would build these blanks using only components supplied from ALPS and ForeCast.

I went online to a dealer of their products and went ahead and placed my order.

If you looked at the rods I regularly carry on my boat, you’ll notice that they are very plain. They are all either raw blanks or blank, basic wraps, etc. I was a bit worried about the finished look of these blanks. I have to say I was quite impressed when I received my blanks. The Immortal series is a very nice subdued titanium color, and the Eternity series is a very rich cobalt blue kind of similar to the color on some St. Croix rods. It really does look stellar in person. Both finishes were flawless and I couldn’t find any imperfections.

I’ve always been a fan of Fuji guides. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it right? I didn’t know what to expect from the Alps/Forecast guides. For the Immortal series I used their SS spinning guides. These guides are quite nice. The larger sizes are pre filed/ground and wrapped very easily and nicely. The smaller sizes only required a minimal amount of prep work to be ready to be mounted. For the Eternity series I decided to buy their titanium guides. Just like the SS guides, they were pretty much ready to go. I didn’t notice any machining burrs and the smaller guides only require a minimum amount of prep. They also look pretty awesome on the cobalt blue blank. I haven’t fished with them long enough to comment on durability, but my initial impressions are very favorable.

For the spinning rod I used an Alps graphite split reel seat with dual nuts. Adding that extra locking not is a very nice touch and one that I appreciated. They also allow you to choose the color of your locking nut if you so desire.

My casting rod I decided to go with their Alps MVT casting seat. They tout this as being made of Toray graphite and MVT stands for Micro Vibration Transmission.. Like the spinning seat, this comes with a locking nut that is really nice and you can pick the color as well. I really like this reel seat. This kind of reminds me a little of the 13 reel seat. I realize the 13 seat is polarizing, and people seem to love it or hate it, but this Alps seat fits my hand very well and rests in a nice position. Whether or not it enhances sensitivity or increases vibration remains to be seen, and I’ll be able to judge better with more time on the water.

The spinning rod received Alps/Forecast eva graips. The EVA seems to be of very high quality and was easy to use. No complaints there.

For the casting rod I decided to use the Tapered carbon fiber grips. I really like these grips. Not only are they aesthetically pleasing but I really like the taper. I find it to be quite comfortable. I was a bit worried it might get a little too slippery when wet, but there’s just enough texture to alleviate that concern.

My overall impression on the components I used is very positive, and I will be using them again on future builds.

A quick note regarding the RainShadow Immortal IMMS72ML. While mocking the rod up I taped the tip top on. Apparently I didn’t tape it that well, because it was rattling around on the end. Those rattles created vibrations that were transmitted down the length of the blank. I understand this was something making direct contact with the blank, but they strength of the vibrations being transmitted down the entire blank was quite impressive.

Both rods also passed my ‘floor test.’ I tie on a round head jig and slowly drag it across the tile floor and close my eyes. You could easily tell the transition from tile floor to grout line with both blanks.

A quick note about these rod builds. While on the phone with the sales staff they mentioned the fact they publish blue prints for all of their rod blanks. Normally I wouldn’t put much faith into blueprints published by a manufacturer, but the sales person assured me they put a lot of work into these blue prints and assured me they weren’t just a generic setup. Both of these rods were built according to the blue prints published by batson.

The blueprints were pretty spot on, I may have moved a guide or two ever so slightly, but I was more than satisfied with the initial guide placement. The picture was taken with a Quantum Smoke 2500 series spinning reel and shows where the balance point on this particular rod ended up.


My first day on the water with these two rods was tough. The fish are chasing shad and can be graphed pretty much anywhere on the lake. It was a slow day, and I only ended up catching three fish, all on the RainShadow Immortal IMMS72ML using a drop shot. (wish I didn’t leave my spoons at home!) I really think this series is going to be special. The rod is SENSITIVE. You can easily tell what the bottom composition is, every rock, pebble, grasss etc. Bites were very easy to detect, even those subtle ‘mush’ bites. There’s enough tip on this rod to make nice casts, and it loads up solidly into the back bone for setting the hook and fighting the fish. I cast weights ranging from 1/8oz-5/16. It handled them with ease. I didn’t hook into any giants, big fish was probably ~3.5lbs, but I had no problem directing them and turning them. Keep in mind though this isn’t a heavy rod, and you won’t be boat bouncing any 8lbers with it. You still need to properly set your drag because you won’t be ‘muscling’ fish. I like this rod so much that I ordered the Eternity2 version! It will be interesting doing a head to head comparison. I also plan on using this for shaky heads if the situation calls for it, and have no doubts it will be more than capable for this task as well. One thing to note about this blank is that IMO it fishes more like a medium than a medium light.

There’s not much to say about the Eternity2 other than the fact that it did everything the Immortal did but better. This blank is sensitive, crisp, and seems to be very well made. The first fish I caught on this rod was pretty cool. I was throwing a 1/4oz texas rig. I felt it come through the grass and could tell it was at the grass line. I felt a quick tap, which I initially thought was possibly a very small panfish. I then felt a subtle pulling, set the hook, and landed this beauty. This rod is now my preferred texas rig and lighter jig rod. In fact, I liked it so much I ordered their MH version to throw heavier jigs with.

Both the rods are fast action with nice tips. Casting on both rods is a breeze and they both load up nicely into a really strong backbone.

I’ve built on and fished with a lot of different rods. GLX, NRX, St Croix, MHX Hi Mod, Lamiglas Infinity, X-Entity, Phenix K2 etc. These rods are the real deal. I didn’t feel like I was sacrificing anything by using these blanks. They offer tremendous performance at an incredible price point. The value these rods bring is amazing, and I think Batson/Rainshadow really did a fantastic job with these. I know everyone has certain brand loyalties, and thats a good thing. So is competition. I really think everyone should try these blanks.

Image

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I'll try to get some more pics of the Immortal, I told my buddy I'd let him use it in a tournament and he hasn't given it back yet... [-X

Also, I know this isn't the most thorough or comprehensive review, so if you have any questions I'll try and answer them.

R. McBride

Batson Enterprises
BatsonEnterprises.com | RainShadowRodBlanks.com | ALPSForeCast.com | Build2Fish.com

R. McIntosh, thank you very much for responding, and posting that review. When I first started the process of selecting a rod blank, I had read that review on Tackle Tour's web site. It and some of the comments I've heard from those that use your older RX8 blanks are the reasons I was, and to some extent, still haven't entirely ruled out, using an Immortal blank for my build.

I'm of the belief that a rod's function should be the major factor an angler considers when deciding which rod to buy. But asthetics play on an anglers emotions, and cannot be ignored. I liken it to washing your car or truck. You may like it when it's dirty. But you like it much more when it's clean. That's not to say that the blank wouldn't or doesn't perform beautifully. I'm sure it does, which is the reason I searched it out in the first place. What I'm saying is ... that to deny your emotions, is to deny true happiness. And in my minds eye I can see the absolutely beautiful rod I could build on that blank.

I absolutely LOVE the Titanium chrome color of the blank. Add a two tone cork split rear grip, an Alps SRSCG split reel seat with Titanium color hood and thread barrel. Small, two tone cork foregrip. Final choice of thread color would probably come down to actually having the blank in hand, but I'm thinking either something in a medium brown with a metalic trim wrap in silver or pewter, or ....... as I read in a post on this site ..... a thread color that once finish was applied, would take on the color of the blank. The winding check for the butt end of the the reel seats thread barrel would present the only problem with color choice. Just order a few different colors and see what looks best. No winding checks at grip and butt grip ends. If there were any imperfections from reaming them too large, I'd use a thread wrap to hide them. It may not look beautiful in the material list, but it looks beautiful in my mind. lol

I do have a question relating to the Immortal blank I mentioned at the beginning of this thread though. In the review you posted the author mentioned contacting your company for information about the blanks he was considering, and that the person he talked to steered him away from a specific blank series because it may prove to be brittle if the rod were put in certain situations. I thought that was awesome of Batson's representative to do. It shows they care about the angler. And in my having read prior posts from you on this web site, I know that you would do the same thing.

With that said .... the supplier that I would end up purchasing the blank from, if I were to choose to use it, makes mention that the blank is strengthened by the use of "the lightest fiberglass scrim available." I'd mention the name of the supplier, but they aren't one of the suppliers on the list to the left, and I'm not sure if such a thing is allowed. I could supply it in another post to this thread if you were curious as to which blank supplier it is, if it would be appropriate in this forum. Or I could supply it in an e mail to you upon your request. Anyhow .... I liked reading that part of the blank description because it made me feel better about the blanks durability. I know that high modulus rods can be brittle if they're put in the wrong position. While I'm looking for a sensitive blank, I'm also looking for one that wouldn't have me worrying about making a fish landing mistake in the heat of battle.

As I said in earlier posts, I don't routinely abuse my equipment, but I don't baby it either. If I need to get a three pound bass out of heavy cover and into the boat as quickly as possible, I want a rod I can do that with and have the confidence that it isn't going to break. Also as I said earlier, I don't routinely high stick my rods, but it has happened on occasion. My question is ..... finally, right? Knowing what I just said about not routinely abusing but not babying my equipment, would you recommend I go with an Immortal blank? I'm not interested in going any lower in the Rainshadow line for this particular rod. The next rod I build, a 6' rod for jerkbaits and squarebills, is definitely going to be on a cropped Rainshadow RX7 crankbait blank. But not this one.

Anyhow ..... thank you so much for your response Mr McIntosh. I really do appreciate you taking the time. And thank you in advance for your response to my question. I'm sorry it took so long for me to actually get to it. I just have trouble controlling my excitement when it comes to this new addiction of mine .... rod building

.

Thank you so much for your information Dave! We do our best all the time when it comes to giving you true and accurate information. Our team has been a family owned and operated company from the very beginning. Our roots though have been in the rod building community! The original owner which is Bob Batson was the president of Pacbay for many years until he started Batson Enterprises. Now his wife Connie is the owner with his son, Bill Batson as the CEO. Our entire team is rod builders and fisherman at heart. Mike Thorson was the head of product development at St Croix for many years before coming to Batson Enterprises as the VP of Engineering. The President, CEO, all the way to our warehouse are fisherman and rod builders. You won't find a team that is as passionate about fishing and rod building as Batson Enterprises. That being said we put our products through the loops to ensure that you the consumer get the best products around. We want to fit fishing styles to rods rather the other way around.

So to clear the air. The RainShadow Eternity2 is unlike any blank out there. Many users and forums have reviews ready to post, but it has been difficult on the supply chain so we are holding off just for a bit. We fished both the RainShadow Eternity2 and the Immortals at Lake Okeechobee,FL last year and purposely tried to go through the motions of the tournament angler all the way to the weekender. That being said, we did not break one even fished very hard. You cannot take factors like people trying to boat bounce fish to other high sticking or bad form fishing, but rest assured these models are some of the best rod blanks that are out there. Remember every rod will break. The Immortals are very close to being as tough as the Revelations. The Immortals though have our UHMR and host of different technologies that will give it more feel and lightness that you are seeking.

If you have any questions you can contact us privately and we will always do our best to help you out!

Thank you for the kind words Dave!

R. McBride

Batson Enterprises
BatsonEnterprises.com | RainShadowRodBlanks.com | ALPSForeCast.com | Build2Fish.com

After seeing photographs on Rainshadow's Facebook page that show the blank color of the Immortal series MUCH better than their web site, I still love the color of the blank, but I wouldn't be using brown thread for guide wraps. lol

Mr McIntosh .... I do plan on contacting your company, either by e mail or by phone to talk more about the Immortal series of blanks you offer. If I may .... is there a certain person I should address my e mail to? Or if I decide to call, is there a certain person I should ask for?

Thank you in advance for any information you can provide.

LOL, David, don't sell the color brown short! :) It looks pretty nice on the Immortal blank if you don't use color preserver.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

Chad .... seeing is believing. That looks better than pretty nice. That looks sweet !!! I mean seriously sweet. I really love the look of the gold trim bands too. You do some beautiful work sir.

I can see I'm going to have to buy more than a few different colors of thread, just so I can try different combinations.

I truly hope that this request isn't totally out of line, but would you mind sharing the thread colors and the manufacturer of the thread you used to do that wrap? It looks like a Fish Hawk bright nylon Chestnut to me. Regardless ..... It is gorgeous, and I would love to duplicate it if such a thing were acceptable to you? After all ..... imitation is the sincerist form of flattery.

If not, my being a tournament bass fisherman, I would completely understand.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2015 02:40PM by David Baylor.