I have an EVA rear grip 14 x 3/4 and a rod with a .955 butt. I tried applying epoxy for lubricant and sliding it down but I couldn't get it to go all the way down. I had to trash the grip because it was stuck in place luckily I have more. What can I do this time around to make this 3/4 ID fit on this blank? I have read many methods just don't know which one will work best. Any tips or tricks would help a lot. Thanks Jaret Hunter

Use the rubber cement method. Some good videos of it on the web.

Look for "Handle Assembly" on YouTube

ream it so it goes 3/4 of the way down

Bill - willierods.com

Check the FAQS page on this website for a method that will work.

................

Next time when trying to slide it into place, make sure there is epoxy well above where you want the grip to come to rest and grip around the top of the EVA. Put the butt on the floor on a piece of newspaper and then slide it down with force and don't stop until it is in place. Once in place if it is shorter than you want, you can twist and stretch it until the right length. Done this many times over the years with Hypalon also.

Thanks guys I'm gonna try again. Hopefully I can get it to go all the way down this time.

The rubber cement method is far superior to any other method. All others are a waste of time and materials (ie- wasted epoxy). It also requires far less effort!

jeremy

How does the rubber cement method work?

Rubber cement is water soluable so if the cement itself is what binds the grip to the blank I would hesitant. The process outlined by some here and in the faqs page is what I have always used. It gets the grip on and makes sure that there is epoxy between the grip and the blank.

I had TWO big game grips come loose because of the rubber cement method Do NOT trust it on anything where any real pressure will be placed on the grips. I have gone back to epoxy and have faith that method never fails. Sometimes trying to save a few pennies costs you many dollars in the long run.

I think that Bill stated it well.
Ream out the inside of the grip, so that you can slide the grip down to at least 3/4 of the blank without binding. Then, it will be easy to slip the grip in place.
Many times, I will ream an eva g rip so that it is just a slip fit onto the blank at the location where I want it. Then, I install it as if I was installing a cork grip. Just a layer of epoxy and on it goes.

I really find no reason at all to do much of a stretch for a grip. Not necessary and it makes the job harder than what it has to be.

Take care

Rubber cement is used on the plugs for repairing tubeless tires, and for affixing patches to inner-tubes...If it is water soluble, does that mean I can only drive my car on dry days?

Garry,
No question about it,
When you use rubber cement to fix tires, you can ONLY drive your car on dry days.

A very popular glue in desert areas!!

By the way, if you believe that I have a great parcel of swamp land for you.


Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2015 07:08PM by roger wilson.

Aaron Logan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I had TWO big game grips come loose because of the
> rubber cement method Do NOT trust it on anything
> where any real pressure will be placed on the
> grips. I have gone back to epoxy and have faith
> that method never fails. Sometimes trying to save
> a few pennies costs you many dollars in the long
> run.

Did you place epoxy where the grips sat like the instructions said?

jeremy

The standard epoxy installation method is so clean and wasteless I guess I haven't looked for anything else. You just put a little epoxy above where the grip will sit, and then when you bring the grip down over it, it lubes and coats the inside of a grip and allows it to easily slide in place, permanently. Not wanting to crap on anybody else's methods but when something is so easy and we are talking about a nickel worth of epoxy I just have not personally seen the need to try anything else. Why use two products when one will do? Plus if you are worried about cost then two products increases your cost. Just MHO.

Ken, if that method works for you, then there's no reason to change. I just got tired the time it took to ream grips and clean up all of the excess epoxy. For me, this method is the quickest and cleanest. It takes me 1/10 of the time that it used to.

jeremy

Thanks again for all your tips I appreciate all the feedback. I went with the rubber cement and it worked amazingly. I also used epoxy so I hope the grips hold I would hate for them to come loose. Again thanks, Jaret Hunter

Given that the epoxy method only takes about a minute to begin with, I would have a hard time seeing any time savings from anything else. Plus it doesn't require me to buy any other cement. I can just use what I have on hand for my other rod building chores. I'll stick.

Another idea is to use just a small amount of epoxy above where the grip first starts taking hold, and a little more about 3/4 of the way down.
To lubricate, try pouring some alcohol into the small gap between the grip ID and the blank above where it first want to grab, and also coat the rest of the dry area with it.
It will help lubricate the grip down, but then disipate, leaving epoxy, which was also somewhat thinned out by the alcohol, to set up and secure the grip.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381