Experiencing major issues where the thread transitions from blank to guide foot. Blank is a M 6-12lb test, 6' blank. Using double footed Fuji Spinning guides. A sz Thread. Using a CRB wrapping system. Thread seems to be "bunching" and has a tendency to overlap, wont "ride" up onto the foot of the guide and when it does the wrap is uneven. Almost feels as though I should have used D sz thread? Ive viewed multiple video tutorials and most seem to be using a power wrapper. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Any/All suggestions would be helpful and appreciated

Thanks,
Scott

Did you file or sand the point of the guide to make it thinner at the transition point?

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

I did file them down, yes. The threads just pile up along the transition point and wont "ride" up the foot

Make the transition from blank to guide as fine a slope as you can. When the thread gets right to the guide foot, lighten up on thread tension a little bit and move a few wraps onto the guide foot. With the lighter tension, you will be able to slide the thread down the ramp of the guide foot and continue winding. Within 1/8 to 1/4 inch, you will be able to pack with a fingernail to get the wrps even again. When all is straight, resume wrapping with your regular tension. Hope you can follow this and that it helps.

Slow down your wrapping at the point it starts to bunch and guide the thread a little by hand. This is usually caused by not having a smooth , fine transition from the foot to the blank, but it can be overcome. Practice makes perfect.

Scott,
I use a 1X30 inch sander to sand the foot of the guide down to nearly a razor edge. I also flatten the guide foot, so that does not make a sharp rise at the end of the foot. Then, when I wrap, there is virtually no break in the elevation and the thread easily follows the guide foot up as needed. Normally when I sand the foot, I sand about 1/3rd to 1/2 the length of the guide foot. I do this to get a nice gentle taper on the foot.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The sander:
[www.harborfreight.com]

With the sander, the guide prep goes very quickly. I did about 200 guides the other day in about 15 minutes. I also prep hook keepers for the same reason. I want a hairline thickness at the edge, so that the wrap is effortless and the transition is very smooth.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2014 02:48PM by roger wilson.

Gentlemen

We tackled this problem in one of our latest videos. Click the link below to watch the short video.

[www.youtube.com]

Basically, we use this little knife sharpener called a Work Sharp, which is basically a mini belt sander. We use either the 80 or 220 grit belts to take down the tips of the guide foot to make a ramp straight up off the rod blank and on to the guide foot.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

You can hand file them also Takes a little time After filing I hit with 220 sandpaper

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm pretty sure i need to file the feet down more. I think I may look into getting a belt sander. I used a fine metal file.

Does it matter if I use A or D sz thread?

Thanks again for all the help.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2014 03:51PM by Scott Vaughn.

I use a dremel tool with a sanding disk on all but the heaviest guide feet, for those I use my belt sander. The Dremel is great for single foot and snake guides and smaller double foot guides. Some guides have a concave bottom surface of the foot, and on those, I use a small cylindrical grinding burr in the Dremel, especially if I don't want to see a change in color when using regular thread with no CP over a black foot. This can also be done with an appropriate round file as well.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2014 04:24PM by Randolph Ruwe.

as some one said back off the tenson on your thread a little an pack well [ tight ] , if it stacks up before the foot,
file more of the foot, bottom line is the hill is just to high to clime an slips back down, I think, SID

William Sidney
AK

Scott,
Speaking of thread sliding.
This is one of the advantages of sanding the guide foot, in a perpendicular direction to the guide foot. After sanding, there are very fine scratches on the foot, that really help to hold the thread in place when wrapping.

Good point Roger. Thank you

Another easy solution for guide prep that fits on your bench is a small 3" grinder. The one from harbor freight comes with an 80 grit wheel and a fiber polishing wheel. You can prep and polish your guide feet with one tool in a location on your bench.

Grinder:
[www.harborfreight.com]


Terry

One word of caution.
When you are done working on the top side of the foot, just make sure that there are no sharp edges under or on the sides.
I've repaired some factory rods over the years where the guide foot was ground down so hard that the end of the foot not only had a sharp edge,
but was also curled down slightly.
That caused it to dig into the blank and after a while, the blank broke right there.
Also have seen guide thread get cut by too sharp an edge on the side of the foot.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Try watching this [www.youtube.com]

Very good video. Thank you. Im pretty sure that was my problem.

I think this is the number one understated issue in rod building. I have spent hours trying to wrap one guide only to realize this was the issue. Even with my last guide set which I thought came marvelously pre-prepped I was going mental until I took them all out and did it again. Tom should make this thread sticky this is such an important lesson!