I have been having problems applying epoxy over decal's sometimes. Is there a product or solution to wipe on the decal to stop the epoxy from separating from it and causing problems. My fix now is to follow up with multiple then coats but it is very time consuming. I'm only down about 20 rod builds so I know there is a lot to know. Other than the decal my wraps finish out great so I think its not my application process.

Coat decal edges with color preserver or spray over with krypton fixative. Sometimes it works and other times not. Decals are a pain for me, too.

It also helps if you put a coat of finish on first -- then the decal

Bill - willierods.com

If you use lite, try the high build. It usually works much better for me.

Plus

Where are you getting your decals ?? Sounds like it may be contamination Dirty hands ??

Bill - willierods.com

I am pretty sure the problem is a fine line of adhesive around the edge of the decal, the epoxy won't flow over it. You're right Bill, put the decal over a coat of epoxy.

Greg
Aptos, CA

I did lay down a coat of epoxy prior to installing the decal. After installing the decal I wiped the decal with a dry towel. I then applied a lite build layer and it looked fantastic. I checked on it about 1 hr later and it started to become wavy as if the epoxy was moving away from the decal. I have two rods going and 1 messed up and the other did not, same decal and process on both. I may have touched the decal after cleaning I'm not sure. Would temp and humidity have an effect. I wouldn't think

if you used a light finish - maybe that was it
Or
Dirty hands and it got some contamination on the decal
Like said i have had problems with thinning finish ( too thin ) and having it seperate

If you use a thin finish at a slow turning rate if you can load it on at a faster rate

Bill - willierods.com

My second coat will be a high build. And I will let you know how it turned out.

How many coats should it normally take. 2 or 3. When it has a problem it take me about 4 to smooth it back out.

That depends How fast you apply If you play buy heating
I like and get good results with a thin coat Then scoff any dust or frizzies with 400 dry ( wet dry paper ) and then do a secound coat

You will have to get your way of doing your finish

Bill - willierods.com

Tells us more about your decals, do you make them or do you buy them?

It is a MHX blank decal and a name decal from MUD HOLE. But if the problem will go away I will invest in a decal maker. I'm currently looking at ink transfer decal so I will not have to put in epoxy over it.

It is a MHX blank decal and a name decal from MUD HOLE. But if the problem will go away I will invest in a decal maker. I'm currently looking at ink transfer decal so I will not have to put in epoxy over it.

Hello David,

I had a similar problem with epoxy finish reacting to the ink in a screen-printed logo and going wavy right above the lettering.

Was advised by the folks here to use at least 2 coats of color preserver, fully dried between coats, and left untouched for 24 hours.

Applying finish after that was a breeze--no waves.

-chad

I will sure give that a try. I have a extra couple decal's ill practice on.

I have found that about two passes with a gray scotch bright pad before applying the finish on top of the label takes care of the issue. The pad, leaves hair line scratches in the surface to let the finish apply cleanly with no lifting issues.

It is understood, that the writing on the decal is NOT on the surface of the decal, but rather the underside of the decal.

Be safe

I had the same issue until I used the tip of coating the labels before applying finish.

I use 2 coats of Krylon fixative, with at least 1 hour cure time between coats prior to applying finish. Sometimes there is residual adhesive on the label face, or around the edges of the label. the Krylon fixative seals all this off and prevents interaction with the finish.

Once coated, using your favorite finish should work fine.

Terry

Hi David,
Below I have posted my two cents on this issue. It used to give me headaches too.

1. If the epoxy is not adhering to the outside of the decal: Likely causes are contamination that the decal picked up from your finger while being applied or the decal substrate does not receive epoxy well. If you think its contamination, you may wish to take a very small amount of denatured alcohol (too much may run underneath the decal and dilute the adhesive) on a soft cloth and wipe away the contaminate. If you suspect the decals substrate doesn't accept finish well, than I would follow Roger's advise two posts up.

2. If the decal is lifting (not staying conformed to the blank's curve) when finish is applied, than applying some quick heat to the decal before applying the finish can work wonders. Keep in mind that this does take some finesse. Too much heat for too long will fry your decal into a shriveled mess. The way I do it is: 2-3 quick passes with a lighter or torch. How quick? To be safe, make passes as quick as you can pass a cheap plastic lighter without the flame going out. The heat will relieve the stress within the decal substrate making it naturally want to conform the blank. This is similar to annealing steel.

Hope this helps. Happy Building!

-Geoff Staples

Thanks for all of the help. I decided to go with cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol. 1 coat under the decal and 2 coats over the decal and it was great. Now if I can stop creating bubbles on the application of the finish I will be on my way.