I built my first offshore rod in June and was pretty satisfied with the results. Only problem was I followed the recommendations of my supplier on setup... guide size, rod length, grip length, etc... This time I want to set it up according to my own specs. I realize there are some standards that are set and no need to venture away from those. I'm talking about things like guide type, height, reel seats, grip length. I already have 2 blanks, one medium, one heavy. Both are 7ftr's. target species, aj, grouper, kings, snapper. Sorry if this post is lengthy, just wanted to be sure and be specific about my project. All help is greatly appreciated.

Spend some, save some, give some away!!! :-)

Arthur,
not being snarky but if you believe there are some standards you don't need to deviate from in the list you mention, why are you not just buying something off the shelf?
Its vastly cheaper and many come with an insurance policy( they call it a warranty).
However if you believe all those things ARE variable and you are trying to get them to be working best for YOUR fishing needs, length of arms,height,size of belly, handedness, bait used,line type,reel size,gimbal type, rod holders used, how transported, size of species in your area etc etc, then you can get some help.
First you have to decide whats wrong with an off the shelf 'standard' solution, pose the question and pretty sure someone will post a solution.
Or do you just want personalized bling on it?
TL;DR version- what do you not like about suggested layouts etc.?

X10 on Lou's comments.

There is 0 reason to deviate with something that both works and with which you are satisfied.

If you are unhappy about something that you have tried and doesn't work for its application, then change it.

The reason that manufacturers use the setup that they use is that they have found that for the vast majority of their customers, the customers are very happy with the products. If the manufacturers get a bunch of comments about an issue with their product; they will change the products to meet the request.

Custom rod building is exactly that - the ability and reason to build something custom that is not currently available from a manufacturer.

Good luck

Gee, it would help to know if spinning or conventional reel. Brand/model# of blanks and reels would help. Knowing where and how you are fishing wouldn't hurt.

In my waters...I would fish for kingfish and grouper in a very different manner and with totally different tackle.

IMHO, the standards you list would be on my list of highly variable choices.

Also...state what you have liked in the past (and why), what you didn't care for (and why), and what problems were caused by following what "recommendations ".

Be prepared for advice suggesting you deviate a drastic ways from the "standards". For example I would certainly spiral wrap any serious bottom fishing rod.....and amberjack and grouper are fairly serious as far as bottom fishing go. For kingfish I would fish much lighter tackle than most but with a lot of line. I don't want more than 4 pounds of drag on the initial run but be ready to handle a 300 yard run if you get into 60# class fish. For kingfish 15-20# class outfit is enough (assuming live bait/drifting type fishing). For grouper and amberjack I'd want at least 30# class and perhaps as much as 50# depending. I'm too old/too small to fish anything more.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

After the responses I got I had to go back and re read my post. I'll try and unring this bell. My wording was off, I don't have any problems with the build at all, I only want to understand better reel height to guide relationship. This combo will be a spinner, with the reel being in the 8 or possibly 10000 series size. The blank is an inexpensive store model from a local rodbuilding supplier. The blank is 30# class and as stated earlier 7 ft. Just curious to know if the NFC would apply with this blank and reel combo. Also want to get a better understanding of how to determine handle length and foregrip lengths for this blank. Finally, I have a software program that helps me with guide placement, I still static test but, rarely have to make adjustments. I hope this clarified what I was asking.

Spend some, save some, give some away!!! :-)

As far as grip lengths go, it's up to you! Put the reel seat on the rod and move it up and down the blank until you're happy with the butt length then mark it. For me, most of my bigger spinning rods have a butt length of 11 and 1/4 inches. But that's me. You may like it longer or shorter. The thing about custom is you can adjust it to the angler. As far as guide placement I think a "general" rule (and I may be wrong) is first guide about 22 inches from middle of reel seat and the rest spaced as needed. Again you can move it further or closer if you want. Best thing to do is tape on the guides and do casting and static casts until YOU like it. Then mark them up and wrap it.

Good article in the library that will help. Guide size (for spinning reels) is more about spool diameter and partly type of line. A taller frame style might allow a smaller ring size to be used (as would using braid over stiff mono). In the past I always used a double foot guide and full underwraps on such a rod. These days I use single foots with no underwrap. The choker/running guides are a fly rod style ceramic guides. I still find alconites to be a solid choice in the mid priced offerings. With a large spool diameter, and a short rod, the new guide concept basically becomes the old cone of flight method. Nothing wrong with the tip top being the choker guide if this is what spool diameter and rod length calls for.

Handle and foregrip length depend upon how you hold the rod and physical size. A rear grip around 12 inches and a foregrip near 10 inches would be reasonable starting points for 30# class and average build.

Just make sure when you static test you do it right. Remember the line that loads the blank only gets attached to the tip top and the load should be hanging in free air. I like to use a light mop bucket and add water for my load. I screw a rod holder to the wall on my porch:) And yes, if I'm calling it a 30# class salt water rod I personally put 30 pounds of load on that blank. So weigh and mark lines on the bucket so you know what the weight is. BTW, many folks would stop loading at what they figure is maximum drag setting. Me? I figure sooner or later I'm going to have to grab the spool and stop that fish Right Now! When that times comes I can't be thinking about if my line or blank is going to break first. All of that needs to be determined way ahead of time under controlled experiments. My advice, take time to test knots and lines too. By a good scale and set drags at home with it. Thirty pounds of pressure on a fish is a lot more than most think....assuming they have never measured.....and way more than I'd try to do in a small boat in rough seas. If something breaks you are going to fall backwards:)

If you are going to go thru the effort why handicap the build with a "cheap store model"? For what you want 50 bucks gets you a good blank and a hundered gets you a darn nice one. My favorite cheap one is RCLB70L (or ML if you really need to fish 30# but I wouldn't for kingfish). For more money I like lamiglas tri-flex (kayak series) rated 15-30. I also like St. Croix inshore (again 15-30#) in SC3 if you can swing it (SC2 is pretty nice though). All of these blanks can bottom fish as long as you don't need a ton of weight. If I dropped that need from the list, and was willing to fish no more than 20# line, I'd suggest looking at a hot shot blank too. They rock if ability to toss a live bait father than anyone else gets you the fish (more of a dolphin thing IMHO).

Good luck man and let us know how it turns out:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.