Cameron,
It is so easy to make a clamp for a split grip, that one just needs to sit down and make one.
I use threaded rod and some hardwood blocks.
You can use 1/4 inch, 5/16th or 3/8th threaded rod.
For ease of use and simplicity, I typically use 5/16th rods. When you get the rods, also get 6 or 8 nuts and washers that will fit the threaded rod.
Figure out what you expect your longest total grip will be. Then, based on the total length add about 4 inches or so, and cut a pair of threaded rods to this length.
For blocks, I just pick up a length of hardwood trim. I prefer to use hardwood, compared to softwood, because there is less chance of splitting. I like to have the block about 2 inches wide. So, if one picks up a length of 2 inch wide trim that is the standard 3/4 inch thick makes a very good end block.
If you want to glue up a split grip, all at one time you need to have 4 blocks per clamp. i.e. you have a pair of blocks for the rear or butt grip, and two more blocks for the front grip or grips and reel seat.
Take your blocks and drill in slightly oversized holes in each side to accomodate the threaded rod. I like to make the holes a bit oversized because you are going to be sliding the blocks up and down on the threaded rods and you don't want them be hanging up on the threaded rod.
For the block that is used for the butt cap, or butt grip, I like to use a Fostner bit to drill a flat bottom hole in the center of one of the blocks. I drill the hole about 3/16th of an inch. The idea of this hole is to use it as a centering hole for the clamp.
Then, for the other blocks, drill holes all of the way through the center of each block that is a bit larger then the size of the blank that you are gluing up. Notice, that this hole has to be sized a bit larger than a given blank, so if you commonly build on different sized blanks, you might consider having a variety of different blocks with different sized center holes. Then, after drilling the center holes all of the way through each block, use a saw (band saw works very well for this) to saw out the one side of each block to create a slot with a round bottom that will slip over the blank when you are gluing up the rod.
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When finished, the clamp will consist of two threaded rods, and 4 blocks with a pair of nuts on one side of each block to clamp the blocks tight against the grips and or reel seat, if using no fore grip.
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Now, having said all of this, if one is using grips that are sized for the rod - i.e. no full length turning of the blank to turn down grips after gluing up cork rings on the blank - but just slipping grips on the blank, you really only need one clamp to glue up the front grip and reel seat and fore grip, if you are using one. So, obviously this clamp could be much shorter.
A clamp like this one would consist of a pair of threaded rod, and a pair of wood blocks to clamp against the bottom of the top grip and the top of the reel seat or the fore grip.
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If you are using a butt cap that has been reamed and sized to fit the butt of the rod, there is really no need to use a clamp for this part of the rod. Just apply 5 minute epoxy to the inside of the butt cap, slip on the blank and hold tight, being sure to remove any adhesive from the blank before it begins to set up.
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Now, another very easy way to have a clamp for a split grip rod is to use a pair of commercial clamps.
Pick up a pair of "ratchet clamps" :
[
www.harborfreight.com]
Then, you can remove the clamp faces from the clamps, and drill a pair of holes in the remaining clamp face. Use these holes to clamp a wood block as described above to each clamp face with a pair of machine bolts.
The advantage of using a pair of clamps like these, is that the use of the clamps is so quick and easy. With the front grip in place, simply slide the wood blocks attached to the clamp faces over the rod parts, squeeze the clamp and you will be good to go.
I first saw this idea on the forum a few years ago.
