I am building on a Jigging Master Three Kings UL blank.
Spinning using Stella SW, Torzite Titanium guides.
To keep the build light i was going to use a foam arbor to get the 24 mm seat he selected for his hand.
But my tests show the blank is going to flex right into the seat area and beyond.
So what is going to happen to that arbor? Crack?
Should i be making arbors out of perhaps a few 1 inch cedar disks?
perhaps cedar/foam/cedar?
A small cushion between arbor and blank, say silicon or?

It won't crack. Don't worry about that. In fact, you may not want an entirely rigid arbor there if the blank is truly going to flex that much, that deep. The brick foam arbors (charcoal colored) from Fuji and Pac Bay are very light and fairly rigid, but have just a little give to them. I'd use those, however many you need.

Also remember that if the angler is going to have his fighting hand on a fore grip ahead of the reel seat (forward point of effort), then there won't be as much flex behind it as your tests may be showing.

...................

Thanks Tom.

hi Lou,
I cant add anything onto Toms comment however I was wondering what your thoughts are on the 3 Kings UL? I have been considering them for a personal build.

Cheers

Ben

Ben, its for a customer that fishes odd places: Mid east, Christmas island, Seychelles etc.
Its a specialist tool for sure.
from playing with it:
It bends deeper into the butt than the competitors( black hole, seeker etc) i have built on.
Not sure if that is good thing, first accidental GT over 50lbs will tell the tale.
That is why this question was asked, i was very nervous about amount of flex with rigid components.

The way it flexes i am sure it will add great action to lures up to 100gms.
Flex will also help trebles to stick well.
Would make great reef jigging stick for up to 30 to 40lb fish , would make 5 lb fish still feel ok.

Do not like:
price. But you save $400 if you build it yourself.

Label: why put it so it does not matter how you work its half obscured? It about 4 or 5 inches long and starts about 1.5 from butt.
Then completely encased in an epoxy so its a mission to remove.

Wrap the butt of the rod so that the label is completely covered and put another label on the blank.

Be safe