I have asked this in the past and have followed the recommendations of using Rod Bond along with Dry Wall tape to make the connection between blank and ferrule. I am using a size 2 ferrule and a blank that is only 5/8 inch in diameter so I have lots of space to build up. Two factors are a concern to me. First, is the build up using rod bond and dry wall tape still the recommended method? Second, with this much build up it is sometimes difficult to make sure that the blank ends up perfectly centered and in a straight line with the blank. My method of alignment is to mount the blank onto my rod wrapping machine and while turning it, make the adjustments to where there is little or no wobble. Does anyone else have a favorite method for doing all this? My main concern is that the connection is the strongest that I can make it. The rod will be used for extreme fishing under extremely high drag settings ( ie 40 - 65 lbs of drag ) and will really be testing the rod to the extreme limits using 200 lb line). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I believe in this instance, I would use fiberglass cloth instead of dry wall tape. Just make sure the cloth is fully impregnated with epoxy.

Randy

Why not graphite arobers - not strong enough ???

Bill - willierods.com

If you want the strongest possible assembly, and this may be overkill if what you're doing now is working okay for you, is to sleeve the rod blank butt with scrap carbon or glass tubing (old rod blank). This might take 2 sleeves, depending on their thickness and/or how much space you have to take up. RodBond or any common 2-part liquid epoxy is fine for this and you find the latter to be better when you have a very close fit.

Once the sleeve has been mounted, it will still have a little taper to it so you'll have to sand or cut it square to perfectly fit the Unibutt. This is easily done by inserting a shaft or another blank section into the rod butt and chucking that into your lathe, then block sanding the sleeve level until it's a close slip fit into the Unibutt. Bond with epoxy and that's it.

All bonds should be prefaced by a water break free surface prep on all mating surfaces.

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Tom

I would also thing that a good prep - inside and outside of any sections that are needed to get the correct size fit
I understand that the inside of any blank has a release agent so they come off the arbor they were made on So that will have to be Cleaned Well for adhesion

Thought about this long ago - just never did it

I do like the idea - With A Good Prep of the sections for adhesion

Bill - willierods.com

I will look through my supply of cut butts to see if I can find something to fit. I would suppose that if I can get it close, then the dry wall mesh can be used on a limited basis.

Just for the heck of it
Call Afco And ask them what thye recamend ??
I still wonder if graphite will give you a GOOD adhesion if done right and is a lot easier to use

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/25/2014 05:01PM by bill boettcher.

I have sent an email to Greg Stotesbury of Aftco already but have not yet received a response. I would be interested in why do they make the ferrule so short and if they lengthen it, would it make it stronger?
I am awaiting the shipment of the blank and the ferrule so I will not be able to do anything until next week when all the parts arrive.

I have sent an email to Greg Stotesbury of Aftco already but have not yet received a response. I would be interested in why do they make the ferrule so short and if they lengthen it, would it make it stronger?
I am awaiting the shipment of the blank and the ferrule so I will not be able to do anything until next week when all the parts arrive.

Greg at Aftco recommended using a bushing turned from hickory or other hard wood. He also mentioned using a piece of butt section as a bushing. I don't have a lathe so I guess I will try the second alternative. Thanks everyone

Bill,

No, a longer butt ferrule wouldn't make it stronger. Once you go beyond a certain length in the particular structure involved, you're just wasting effort and material.



..................

Tom

You mean Mel

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks everyone. As usual, I think that I have the answer. I will go with the alternative of adding a section of blank as a bushing. I guess I need to visit a few shops to see what they may have laying around.