Hi All

My current build has gone from bad to worse! I just pulled the tape off the rear grip and found that some epoxy had wicked under the tape! Any way to remove this? Can I sand the EVA? It's to thin to peel off!

This is a disaster!

On the flip side my wraps turned out really nice! Lol

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

next time take the tape off RIGHT AWAY then wash with alcohole

Now sand if it has set up Only way - on a lath Yea you can do it buy hand

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks Bill. I am going to try to sand it.

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Another thing Always dry fit Before Gluing up Several times
I don't like an eva handle sticking in place 1 - 2" before it goes down in place - LOL

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, I am also new here and would like to know how you tape things "the right way." What is the method of taping things so epoxy and other gels and liquids do not seep in under your taped-off section?

Thanks!

Carlos

Best way is to Not have the eva So Tight that it Pushes the glue out from under it I ream for a easyer fit
I get them to stop 2-3 inches from where they will sit
tape as best you can
I ream the Leading section of the grip Forget what it is called so the glue Tends to go into the grip
I tape up the blank in front of where the grip goes so I don't get glue on the blank It goes on the tape Then pulling the tape off Glue is almost all gone

When in place Clean right away
measering the ID as close to blank size Helps greatly less reaming

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2014 11:50AM by bill boettcher.

Hi,

When it comes to grips I like to use the PVC tape stuff that comes in red and blue rolls. I use this because it has no tack to it and will not leave residue or remove any of the grip when removed. It provides waterproof sealing in its natural application so it works really well for me. I've actually had painters tape pull EVA pieces out when removed.

One trick that I learned for edges of finish was to actually wait until the finish had set a little before removing tape (if you use it). Just something about the finish having time to perk up a little that gives it a really nice solid line. For a typical light finish I'd say 20-30 minutes depending on room temp.

In addition to Bill's comment, just don's use any tape when you build a rod. Stuff invariably get under the tape and causes issue.

So, use no tape and use the right amount of glue. As you push thing together, if a glue ridge is building up, use a brush to take the ridge off, before you push things tight.

Then, for the first 30 minutes following a glue up, constantly monitor the rod for signs of glue pushing up and or oozing out of joints. If you see any, get right on it with DNA and a tooth brush and remove any residual glue.

If the epoxy has begun to set, so that DNA won't remove it, use good ventilation and use Xylene or Acetone to remove the excess glue. Both Xylene and Acetone are much much stronger and are also very harmful if the fumes are breathed in, so use only with very good ventilation. For example an open window with a fan behind you so that fumes are blown out of the window as you work with these strong solvents.

But, if you stay on top of your build as you glue things up, don't use an excessive amount of glue, use no tape to let things get trapped under and you will be good to go.

Be safe