Hi guys
Just wondering everyone seems to do all their butt wrapping after the handle is in place.
Is there anything wrong with marking out all the lengths for the handles then doing the butt wraps BEFORE the handle is on? Then doing 1 coat of finish before assembling the handle?
Seems it would be easier?
Thanks in advance guys
Andi

There isn't necessarily anything at all wrong with it, provided you can get your handle components over the finished wrap without hurting anything. You just have to decide which order works best for you.

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ok thanks Tom

You can also extend the butt wrap into the grip area and hide the tie off under the grip. This will make the wrap look as if it is coming out of the fore grip. If you do the same for a split grip, the wrap will look as if it continuous with all of the tie offs hidden under the grips.

I have done several that way. Easier with EVA than cork. If the grip is reamed out you need to make sure there is no grit in it. Also the finish needs to be set up good. I wait a week at least due to the clean up with alcohol after sliding the grip on. Its a nice look especially if you incorporate the first guide wrap into tip end tie off.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

The big question is Why would you want to do it that way??

Either way works, but laying down thread first slows the rod building process because it requires more steps in the application of finish (and the drying/curing time for each of those additional steps).

I prefer to do DEC wraps after handle assembly, but before guide wraps. This seems to make the best use of my time.

Why would you want to do it that way? Simple, it looks better IMHO. I do dec wraps/tigers ect then install grips as I can hide the tie offs and it looks great. I recon it is easier with eva than cork also, still doeable. just ensure your threads are covered and the finish is set up very well.

CKR

On my first tiger wrap, I wrapped the tiger, installed the grips (cork and the butt grip from the bottom) and then added trim wraps next to the grips to change up the look.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

I think the only problem you might run into is increasing the arbor size and the gap to the blank at the front of the grip. I could see this being an issue if you don't have the exact size winding check you need and/or the check is not flexable i.e. anoidized alumnium or something. I've had that problem in the past with ice rods, reamed hole being too large and not a small enough check.

Come to think of it make sure the check is the correct size after the butt wrap, don't measure diameter at the blank but around the wrap. I like the idea of hiding the butt wrap though without needing to do another wrap of D to the hook keep. Sometimes it just looks like a cover up even if it's done really well.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2014 04:03AM by Elliott Reams.

I have a rod I'm doing this on I started 4 years ago. Put it off to cure and built about 50 since. I guess it is set up enough. 'l'll have to look for it. No worries about an arbor in front of the reel seat for the fore grip. The thickness of the wrap and finish will be about equal to the taper or thinner and the grip will fit snug into position.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)