I am getting the components together for my first build. It is a Century NorEaster 1327, will be paired with a Sustain 6000, using 30# Power Pro braid and used for plugging. Most of the plugs I use are pencils and poppers in the 2 ½ to 3 ounce range and I fish the Cape Cod Canal which equals fast moving currents.

Distance from the butt to the reel will be 28 inches. The Sustain spool has a diameter of 2.5 inches. Converting that to 63.5mm and multiplying that by 27 and reconverting to inches will put the choker out at 67.5 inches from the reel.

I am thinking that stainless guides with black wraps and silver trim would look good on this rod. Using a KB 5.5 for the choker and KB 5 guides for the runners, I would like to use a KL-H 20 as the stripper and a KL-H collector train but am worried about the single foot guide train as this is a relatively heavy surf rod, so I am really looking at using KW guides here. Looking at the height chart it looks like I will have to move up to a KW 25 collector to compensate for the height difference between the KL and KW and then go KW16 and KW 12 for the rest of the train to make them line up correctly.

As I undrstand it, the collector train locations are set by where they intersect a straight line from the reel stem to the choke guide and "bullseye". Am I getting this all right or am I overthinking this project?

You will most likely want to go to the kw30 to get the height you will need. The kw25 is not that high and you will get line slap most likely. I have a similar setup with a kl20h stripper to kt6 runners for a 6000 gosa sw and it performs great modified kr concept. Went titanium for extra strength

Hi Frank, You can save yourself one step. Converting to mm by multiplying 25.4 mm/inch and then dividing by 25.4 mm/inch is unnecessary. Just keep everything in inches or everything in mm if the metric system is the system of units where you live.

Just my two cents.

Mike Blomme

Dennis Hamilton Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You will most likely want to go to the kw30 to get
> the height you will need. The kw25 is not that
> high and you will get line slap most likely. I
> have a similar setup with a kl20h stripper to kt6
> runners for a 6000 gosa sw and it performs great
> modified kr concept. Went titanium for extra
> strength

Dennis:

Do you have any issues with the single foot KL-H guides standing up to the higher stresses going to the heavier rod and line or does going with Ti address that issue?

Thank,
Frank

The 27X specifics can be found here: [www.rodbuilding.org]
.............

Hi Frank,

I am going to be working on a plugging/ metal lure rod soon as well and 28 inches from butt to the middle of the spinning reel seat seems a little much unless you have some very long arms. I am 6'2" and I find my max length would be 25 inches for any surf spinning rod. For my plug rod I am planning on using the measurement of the middle my hand to elbow which will be around 14" so I can get more action on the lure and more length of the rod used in the cast and then use a Manley Adjustable rod butt to extend the butt up to about 10" if needed to fight a strong fish. I fish the OBX and realize you need more leverage fishing up there in the strong current of the canal but maybe a longer foregrip to move up to if needed may work too. Just my thought but really it comes down to what best suits you and your style.

Dave

David Miller Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Frank,
>
> I am going to be working on a plugging/ metal lure
> rod soon as well and 28 inches from butt to the
> middle of the spinning reel seat seems a little
> much unless you have some very long arms. I am
> 6'2" and I find my max length would be 25 inches
> for any surf spinning rod. For my plug rod I am
> planning on using the measurement of the middle my
> hand to elbow which will be around 14" so I can
> get more action on the lure and more length of the
> rod used in the cast and then use a Manley
> Adjustable rod butt to extend the butt up to about
> 10" if needed to fight a strong fish. I fish the
> OBX and realize you need more leverage fishing up
> there in the strong current of the canal but maybe
> a longer foregrip to move up to if needed may work
> too. Just my thought but really it comes down to
> what best suits you and your style.
>
> Dave

Dave:

I thought it was a bit much in the butt to reel distance but I recently read in a distance casting forum that the optimum butt to reel distance was from the middle of your grip on the rod at the reel seat and to the middle of your left hand when placed under your left armpit. For me that is 29 inches. I am also 6'2" and have always measured from the middle of my grip on the reel stem to the butt at the middle of my chest with my right arm stretched out in front of me. For me that is 25.5 inches.

What I am trying to accomplish, is a light, long casting plugging, surf rod that can still fight a 40+ pound fish in a 5 MPH current in a rocky shore environment. Stretching the butt to reel distance is, if I understand it is to increases the effect of pulling down on the rod but to increase tip speed thus generate distance. I don't know it this will work until I tape it up and give it a go.
Thanks Dave,

Frank

I run 10mm runners and start off with a 30mm fit in what fits for transition guides and looks right and test cast it.

Frank Balas Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> David Miller Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Hi Frank,
> >
> > I am going to be working on a plugging/ metal
> lure
> > rod soon as well and 28 inches from butt to
> the
> > middle of the spinning reel seat seems a little
> > much unless you have some very long arms. I am
> > 6'2" and I find my max length would be 25
> inches
> > for any surf spinning rod. For my plug rod I am
> > planning on using the measurement of the middle
> my
> > hand to elbow which will be around 14" so I can
> > get more action on the lure and more length of
> the
> > rod used in the cast and then use a Manley
> > Adjustable rod butt to extend the butt up to
> about
> > 10" if needed to fight a strong fish. I fish
> the
> > OBX and realize you need more leverage fishing
> up
> > there in the strong current of the canal but
> maybe
> > a longer foregrip to move up to if needed may
> work
> > too. Just my thought but really it comes down
> to
> > what best suits you and your style.
> >
> > Dave
>
> Dave:
>
> I thought it was a bit much in the butt to reel
> distance but I recently read in a distance casting
> forum that the optimum butt to reel distance was
> from the middle of your grip on the rod at the
> reel seat and to the middle of your left hand when
> placed under your left armpit. For me that is 29
> inches. I am also 6'2" and have always measured
> from the middle of my grip on the reel stem to the
> butt at the middle of my chest with my right arm
> stretched out in front of me. For me that is 25.5
> inches.
>
> What I am trying to accomplish, is a light, long
> casting plugging, surf rod that can still fight a
> 40+ pound fish in a 5 MPH current in a rocky shore
> environment. Stretching the butt to reel distance
> is, if I understand it is to increases the effect
> of pulling down on the rod but to increase tip
> speed thus generate distance. I don't know it this
> will work until I tape it up and give it a go.
> Thanks Dave,
>
> Frank





I am pretty sure the distance caster length is ideal with 13 foot rods, casting reels and swinging at least 5 oz of weight.

Sounds like you are going through the build similar to myself, I am going to tape on a plate reel seat and test cast and maybe even fish with it before I do the thread wraps.


One of these days I am going to have to go experience the NE surf fishing .

Frank, You can forget about those KB 5.5 & KB 5's if your going to use a shock leader. You'll be breaking off, or fraying line and stompin that rod to death on your first night out. 10's to be sure, 8's with braid only. Don't ask me how I know! (11' CTS Vaportrail) and if your looking for distance that 20 will have to change to a 30.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2014 12:01AM by Dennis Danku.

I have no problems with my ti klh guides so far. I have a similar rod with steel and have bent a few during transport that I had to bend back. As far as fish go, have landed 120lb tarpon with no problems. It all comes down to if you will damage them, the guides hold up to fish, surf, waves, and current just fine. Im not sure why you would need a 30 for distance, besides the guide height in the kw lineup. The kl20h and lc20 have the height you need and can contain the coils coming off a 6000 Shimano propultion spool lip imo when given enough distance. Then you can choke quickly and see other weight shedding benefits. I would ask why a 30 is needed if recommended for distance other then to avoid line slap. As far as runners go you if you dont pass knots then you should be good with 5.5 and 30lb braid. Be prepared to order a tiptop from Japan as well. I can pass nice tight knots like an albright or uni trimmed tight with 50lb leader thru 6 but would go 7-8 if I did pass them on the regular with leader. For the most part my leader is always outside the tip. I would also evaluate your seat position. Your casting style plays a big factor as well as overall comfort. If you plug fish between your legs then it may not be a problem. I use my thigh when fighting and my butt length is designed to rest ideally there. Makes no sense to gain a few yards only to make it uncomfortable to reel all night. Extra length doesn't necessarily mean more distance for you anyway. Where your comfortable and have torque for how you cast is ideal. Pure distance casters fish on open fields, remember that. Test it and dial it in for your needs and you will be just fine.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2014 03:12AM by Dennis Hamilton.

Hi Frank,

Check out the Pac Bay FX single foot guides in the Titanium alloy frame with deep pressed zirconia rings for your choke and runners. They are very sturdy built guides and the price is excellent. I have them in a 8 and size 10 and they are very strong. I would look at the size 7 and maybe 6 for your build.

The Ti ion ring lock tip tops from American Tackle looks very nice for the money too. I haven't bought them to know personally but I will soon.

You can have several manufactures guides on your custom rod and most would have no clue that you did.