IMHO

The feet should be Prepped Filing the underside and sanding the top For Grip Smooth feet will slid out from under the thread easier Plus good tension and locking rape

Bill - willierods.com

sorry double post

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2014 11:21PM by Barry Chapman.

G'Day Chester yes I increase the tension as I wrap the last 2-3 guides as the flex in the rod increases .I don't know which of us is right or wrong all I can say is that it works for me & never have had a problem with loose guides .I guess I should also mention that I move the rod supports as close as I can get them . Also I also use a "Forhan" lock wrap

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Check your guide feet.
If you have a smooth taper on the guide foot form the leg to the tip of the guide does not have an inset, you don't have a good mechanical lock on the guides.
If I run into a guide like that, I will just use a dremel tool to cut a couple of small notches into the foot of the guide. This gives a good mechanical lock of the guide thread into the notches and onto the blank.

I have also had a few misshapen guides that have essentially a flat back on the bottom of the guide. With this shape, the guide foot doesn't follow the radius of the blank.

If I see a guide like this I will just touch the bottom of the guide to a smaller wheel on my belt sander to sand a radius into the bottom of the guide so that it both slightly roughens the guide as well as to better shape the guide foot underside to match the chape of the blank.

Be safe

Chester,
I agree with Barry on increasing the thread tension as I move toward the tip. In a lot of cases, the thread tension does not in fact change so much but on a fine tipeed rod, you often will get some blank bending that can make the thread want to be a bit looser.

Be safe

Need more tension ... and be sure there is at least a small amount of epoxy in the "tunnel". If there is, the guide would have to ride up and over this, like a "speedbump", thus only stretching the threads even tighter in order to come out. Just can't happen if there's enough tension to begin with.

Sounds like more than just tension, although I would try more to see if it helps. It sounds like there is no significant bond between the CP and the blank, which can be caused by contamination on the surfaces (I've done lots of titanium chrome finish blanks with no special prep and no issues) or maybe bad CP. If your CP is old, I'd replace it, then on the next try increase the tension, use a Forhan loop, and make sure the guide and blank surfaces are clean and dry. If you have another blank similar to this one you might try an experimental wrap under where the grip or reel seat will go to see if you have the problem solved.

I should have added that when all conditions are right, even with CP, removing cured epoxy is not an easy task. If when you take the windings off you find they come off easily, I expect bonding due to factors above is the problem. If they are very hard to get off the blank, then maybe it's just tension.

The wraps did come off easily(thank goodness)except for the end trim bands, I think because the epoxy on the end carried over directly to the blank and last couple trim bands. I will re-wrap this weekend and let you all know. Based on all your input and some decisions on my end, I will rough up the guide feet, Forhan wrap, increase tension, and use different thread with no cp. thanks again for all the ideas.

Thread tension was off. Also use a forhan wrap

A single foot guide is secured by epoxy and one set of thread wrappings which must endure considerable leverage. A double foot guide is secured by epoxy and twice as many thread wrappings which are not subject to much leverage. These facts should influence the decisions of a rod builder or customer. If you pursue small fish and take care to protect your tackle then single-foot guides are the obvious best choice.

THE TREAD HOLDS THE GUIDES IN PLACE
CP and Finish only keep the eliments from harming the thread

If I am wrong some one please Correct Me

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2014 06:57PM by bill boettcher.

Right you are, Bill. I should have written "A one foot guide is secured one layer of thread thread protected by a layer of epoxy, both of which are subjected to considerable leverage, while a two-foot guide is secured by two layers of thread, each protected by a layer of epoxy, but subjected to relatively little leverage." I still maintain that a one-foot guide is the best choice for light-duty, light line rods whose owners take care in their handling and transportation.

You are right Phil

I also consider the guide prep as a why to hold guides on a rod
if the feet are smooth the foot will be easier to pull out So I generally at least sand all feet Single or double foot with 220 or 320 grit paper wet but do it dry to give more grip so as not to Slide out from under the thread

Then there is a way if one wants to bother and do a locking wrap on double foot guides
After putting in the pull loop one can always cut a long piece of thread and do maybe two turns of a Forhan wrap -- just to be sure
I have not tried it yet but it is a good idea ?? maybe Overkill ?? LOL

Bill - willierods.com