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Rattan Grips?
Posted by:
Boo
(208.151.236.---)
Date: November 01, 2001 07:12PM
I'm not a rod builder but found one that builds cane rods using a rattan grip. Can anyone here enlighten me on the advantages/disadvantages of rattan vs. cork grips? Do the rattan grips require more maintanence and are they as durable as cork? Is the wicker of the rattan covered with a varnish? Why have the rattan grips all but disappeared? Thanks! Re: Rattan Grips?
Posted by:
Mike B.
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: November 01, 2001 08:09PM
Are you sure they are rattan? I have seen some that looked like rattan but in fact they were turned from wood and only looked like it. Otherwise I would have to assume they are pretty durable. Outdoor furniture made from rattan lasts a pretty good while. Re: Rattan Grips?
Posted by:
Boo
(208.130.229.---)
Date: November 01, 2001 09:08PM
They look like rattan and are called as such by rod maker Tony Miller. The rods with the grip look striking. But, as stated above I know nothing about rattan grips except I have seen them on very old rods from the late 1800's and early 1900's. Re: Rattan Grips?
Posted by:
Lincoln Parmer
(---.atw.pa.webcache.rcn.net)
Date: November 09, 2001 08:16AM
Concerning Rattan Grips: What you are looking at is actually chair caning. The caning material can be found at most well stocked craft stores. You need the 1/8 inch caning material. For about 8.00 smaller is better if it can be found. Keep in mind the smaller, the more distinct. You next determine how long the grip area is to be. Choose a cane strip long enough to wrap the grip. Older rods seemed to have longer seats and grips. Next soak the cane for 6 hrs in warm water to increase its pliability. Let me suggest practicing on a dowell or broomhandle prior to venturing into this. It can be glued to the base with a quality two ton slow cure epoxy. Work on the grip before the seat is installed. tape down the end of the cane to the seat area. Typically a heavy thread was used to fill in the gap in the cane following the groove. Proceed with the caneing up the grip epoxying as you go. Keep it as tight as you can (no gaps). Working time is determined by your epoxy. So 5 minute is out. When you get to the end of the grip, wrap it off with tape> Now go at it and clean up the epoxy that has oozed out of the cracks. Don't get heavy handed with it. A rag soaked in alcohol and rung out well will do for this. Be smart. Prepare two rags for the this working as quickly as you can. full cure should be at 24 hrs. Historically speaking, the next step is to fill the groove with a sz. D or E rodbuilding thread. Garnet or Deep Red looks good, but go with your color scheme. Next step is to color preserve. 24 hrs. Next step, finishing. Varnish is OK, polyurethane is better. But I have found Clemens Crystal Coat to work the best. Use as many coats with whatever finish you choose to make it look best. Typically a metal check is used at the front. After several days, remove the tape from the ends. inlet the cane ends cut on biases, and tuck them under the seat in the rear and the winding check in the front. Do this also with your thread. Voila. Not a production idea, but a stunning ly attractive and serviceable grip. Best of luck. The Roundman Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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