I was wondering if any one could give could give me some pointers on how to ream out hypalon grip material. File's and reamers are not cutting it

To my best knowledge, you do not ream Hyplalon. It is stretched to fit the rod diameter. The stretching is done by forcing the lubricated hyplalon down on the rod. Some shops use an air pressure hose to expand the hyplalon, then it is the pushed down the rod. The lubrication is usually the epoxy or glue that bonds the hyplaon to the rod.

Thanks but I am replacing a worn out butt grip. I am trying to do it from the butt with out taking the reel seat and the guides off. Any more info will be much appreciated Thanks

@#$%& - An email address is required to post. Thanks. I am sure it was just an oversight..

Brooks I believe there is a method which I may not be perfectly correct on but here goes, I am assuming it is a hollow glass rod that you are working on get yourself a piece of dowel or pipe that will fit in the butt and applyepoxy to the dowel or pipe and move grip around to coat the inside of the grip and in a quick steady motion slam it home the hypalon will expand and the dowel or pipe will give you a firm starting point. Hopefully others will pipe in here to help but I am rather certain this should work. You could probably build a ramp with electrical tape if the wall thickness is an issue build it 3 to 4 inches long. Or you could find someone with an air compressor to blow the grip out and on for you. I don't think hypalon reams or files all to well because of its soft makeup. Good Luck

I think that andrew's suggestion will probably work, but the air compressor may cause quite a mess with epoxy. I once used a really coarse file to ream out hypalon, I think it was a bastard file for wood, so coarse, I would almost put it in the rasp catagory, what you need, is something with alot of teeth on it that won't clog up easily. or, just work slowly, cleaning often with a file card. maybe one of the other guys can help, as its been a year or 2 since I built anything with hypalon.

Try plugging one end of the grip and pour some thinner inside. Now plug the other end with your finger and rock the grip back and forth, coating the inside with the thinner. Now pour the thinner back into the container. This will soften the grip and help it stretch easily. The thinner will evaporate and all is well. The grip will slide soooo..easy.

Bruce Young
Landing Gear

Thanks for the info guys I put alittle air to the end of the grip and it went rite on. Had the handle glued on in about 10 min. beats fitting it for 3 nites Thanks again

Hi.

This is how a friend does it.

Using dowels of different diameters he made his own tools..

Cut the dowel to say 4 inches. Sand or file an end to fit into the butt section of rod being repaired. Maybe 1' in length.

Sand or file other end gradually to form a pyramid. The apex is at the end of the dowel. You want the butt grip to be able to slide up the pyramid and onto the blank. This will expand the grip to fit onto the butt end of the rod. You want the base of the pyramid to over fit the end of the rod butt so it stays in place.

Epoxy the surface of these tools. Use finish epoxy. Let dry till really cured. Several days. If you use the wood in a raw state the synthetic grip will grab onto the wood and bind.

When installing grip, spread epoxy on the blank and the tool. It also helps to get epoxy inside the grip. Now just push the grip up the pyramid dowel and push it up the blank..

When grip is in position remove the dowel tool and clean everything with alcohol.

My friend made about 5 of theses dowel tools in different sizes to fit different ID's of butts.

Capt Neil

Brooks:
Been there, done everything listed, from exotic reamers, filling grips with acetone, butterfly drill bits, etc. etc. etc.
Here's what worked for me:
1 - Most important, use a section of hypo closest to the actual diameter of the BOTTOM of your reelseat, not the diameter of the blank at the BUTTCAP end, since you'll be sliding it on in reverse.
2-Get a section of P.V.C. tubing 1 1/2" or better, and long enough to cover the section of hypo plus 2" or so. I clamp mine in a vise.
3-Plug one end of the tube via any means available, a P.V.C. cap, 100 m.p.h. tape an old sock, WHATEVER!
4-Boil a pan of water. (While water is boiling, coat the butt section liberally with your favorite adhesive; personally, I use contact cement)
5-Drop your hypo into tube, weigh it down with a heavy screwdriver, spark plug, steel pipe cap on a string, etc.
6-Pour in the boiling water
7-Have a cup of Joe, or your favorite beverage, or wait a minimum of 10-15 minutes.
8-Remove the weight, the hypo will pop to the surface.
9-CAREFULLY, pull it out of the water, don't burn yourself, Junior
10-Install in usual manner, you'll be surprised how effortlessly it slithers on, I can already see the smile on your face!
I use this method on ALL of the hypalon grips I install, no more sweat and/or tears. Steve
8-Remove the weight, and the hypo will pop to the top.

Hi, Bruce what type of thinner? Thanks