I have always had trouble getting glass smooth epoxy over long butt wraps, even though I am happy with the finish on the thread wraps. I was putting finish on a rod Monday when I remembered I had a sample wrap and feather inlay I wanted to test coat. Well, the finish had stiffened up a bit so I gobbed it on and brushed it back and forth along the area. When it sagged, I did the T.K. 180 degree flip every five minutes for a while, and it turned out glass smooth. I guess I just wasn't putting enough finish on, from now I am not going to be shy about applying plenty of finish.

Greg,
the last 4 rods I have finished, I absolutely gobbed the finish on. I read somewhere that you should get it on a quickly as possible. So four rods ago I tried to just slap it on and let it go. My finish has improved 10 fold over these last few rods. I wish I had learned this about 10 rods ago.

A fast turner will also hold more finish

Bill - willierods.com

I put it on thick, let it run to bottom and then wick off. I don't start my dryer til after I wicked excess and have good results (most of the time).

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I was letting it sag and then wick off the sag, but this time I just rotated it 180 degrees without wicking. Smooth as can be.

Greg

The key, as I mentioned in the article, is to never allow the epoxy to sag. Put it on, and turn 180 degrees the instant you it begin to get heavy on one side. Epoxy is easy - the less you do the better it'll come out.

.................

I have also found that doing the guides first or the butt wrap first - but not doing them together. This takes a long time and the finish starts to thicken. Not good. guides I usually do one coat --- dry- then sand out the lubes and dust, then a second coat and all is well

Then go for the butt wrap. At lest three coats -- no heat don't play with it -- It knows what to do

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
What ever works is great.
I generally do two to three rods on a batch, including the butt wraps.
I start at the butt, go to the tip. Get finish on everthing needed. Then, use the heater to thin and let the finish flow out and transfer to the dryer.
Go to the next rod and repeat. Generally 2-4 minutes per rod.

Apply at 0-50 rpm and let dry at 10-15 rpm.

Take care
Roger

I use west system epoxy you can put it on in two layers then sand, I start at 320 go to1200 then I tape up stuff paint it then gloss then get deep glossy look

This post may reap some comments but I'll post it anyway.

I have little expearence at this but have never had the trouble I see posted here. The fist rod I finished, I was freaked out because of the many posts here on problems finishing a rod. I use high build and a heat gun. I put a little expoy on an a guide or area an hit it with a heat gun and the expoy should thin and soak right into the threads- I brush it again from the pot with more expoy from the cooler expoy in the pot untill it sags just a bit and I take a little off with the brush. I find I can move expoy with the air from one end of the guide to the other or make it flow out. I use warm air and warm expoy, and cooler expoy from my pot with a brush to keep the job flowing as needs be. I sometimes use the warm expoxy on the brush to soak the next guide.

I use only one coat with high build and I understand a bit from painiting- material sets and the fisrt part of a pot acts differently from the last. I use small pots if necessary and larger ones on bigger rods or jobs. Waste is not a concern- only expoy perdiction.

This has worked for me,
Chuck