I just finished my second build. Wow!! What an improvement, in the finish, from the first.

In an earlier thread I related the opportunities that I had with using FC Lite finish. (wavy, footballing, etc.) Of course, it was all due to learning curve that I had to go through. I backed off on the amount applied for each application & wicked the excess after 2ea 30min sessions of non-movement after 90deg rotation. Then it went on the dryer for 10 hours.

Now I have a new question about finish. In the process of finishing my second rod, a buddy asked me to replace a guide on one of his rods. Not wanting to pass on an opportunity to gain more practice, I gratefully accepted the task. After wrapping, and getting ready to apply finish, i noticed a couple of syringes of FC High Build that I got in a kit when I started this endeavor. So i mixed the High Build instead of the Lite. Using the same method, as described above, I came up with even better results that I did with the Lite. It seemed to be easier to roll off the edges of the threads, creating the desired ramp between the blank & thread. Also, I had less problems with bubbles, even though they were both mixed in a Pac Bay Auto Mixer for 3 minutes and spread on foil. (I seem to be creating the bubbles during application of the Lite Build, and not with the High Build.)

So I guess the question is, what are the advantages of using the Lite Build vs. the High Build? Should I continue to educate myself on the finer points of applying the Lite Build, or should I just switch to the, easier for me, High Build?

WIth the high build, you are going to be able to put more finish on in one coat. You could not put that much finish on with the lite. The thing you can do is still put on 2 thin coats with the high build finish.

High Build will do anything "Lite" build can, but not vice versa. You'll just have to decide which suits you better.

...........

I had exactly the same experience. Frustrated with the results of the Lite, especially on the label section, I initated a research project using different techniques suggested on this forum, in the literature, in the books, and by discussion with "experts". I kept detailed records for over 50 test applications until I gave up in disgust with my inability to get repeatable results, especially in regards to waveness. I did learn several things however, namely, that bubbles were completely eliminated by the mixer and by use of a spatula to apply the finish, and results seemed to improve if the rod is rotating at about 90 RPM (est.). Since the mix is free of bubbles, I also found no need for spreading it out on the aluminum foil, applying the finish directly from the mixing cup. Somewhere along the way toward the end of this "research Program" I tried FC regular and the improvement was astonishing! Now most of the applications are perfect, or near perfect, to my untrained eye. In the process I had accumulated quite a bit of Lite which I now won't let get near a rod. I am getting rid of it by furnishing it to the students in my rodbuilding class to practice with.

One other thing I discovered was that if I got an uneven first coat, a second coat seemed to go on much smoother after first sanding it level with sanding sticks and synthetic steel wool.

I hope this helps.

I perfer to use a lite build for wetting out decorative wraps where there is a lot of air trapped in the layers of thread. For me it seems to work better at penetrating the threads and squeezing out those tiny bubbles that tend to sit in the cross wraps. I've only done a few tartans so far but I believe the lite build works much better as a first coat on these than the high build.

i use threadmaster lite for everything now. its very easy to put too much on, but i can typically get by with 2 coats on decals and hook-keeper wraps and a single coat guides.

the key to lite builds and long sections of finish (like over decals) is to make sure the finish is warm ( i use a clamp style work-lamp about 8-10 inches directly over the section i'm applying finish to) and to apply it as thin as possible on the first coat. slow, straight brush strokes all the way down the decal and pull off any excess at the end.

Regards,
-Justin

what do you guys use to take off excess epoxy from a wrap??