Hello everyone, looking for some info on how to tie a tuna cord wrap for a fore grip, basically on the starts and stops, also do you need cork tape under the wrap and do you put any kind of sealer or something on the wrap or just leave it alone. Thanks scotty.

There are a lot of ways to do it and i'm sure you'll hear a few here.

I wrap them just like wrapping a guide as far as starts/stops go, except I only wrap over and pull thru (to start & stop) 2-3 turns of cord VS 4-5 turns of thread on a guide. Just make sure that you have plenty of tension on the cord. After I trim the tags, I put a drop of CA (Super Glue) on them right after trimming and before burnishing/smoothing the ends. I also put a couple of beads/ribbons of CA on the blank about an inch ahead of where I'm wrapping (then wrap right over it) to prevent the cord from slipping.

You don't NEED cork tape under it, but you can. lots of people do to increase the grip's diameter.

Finish/Sealer all depends on the kind of cord that you use. Cord like Polyester or tarred twine that doesn't absorb water can be left un-coated. Cotton and other cords that WILL absorb water should be coated. i've used a light coat of regular rod finish with good results. Others use marine spar varnish.

If you happen to be "Out West", there's a Cord Grip & Turkshead seminar at the Custom Rod Show in Costa Mesa a week from Saturday (5/2). [www.westcoastcustomrodshow.com]

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Thats the info I needed mark, thanks, going to use that new cord you sell, the reason I guessed for the cork under the cord would be to help make up the difference in Dia between the blank and reel seat if I have a large gap?. Scotty.

Scott I wrap a lot of Tuna cord grips and I like using the braided seine cord sold at most commercial marine hardware stores. The stuff is actually for net mending and comes in quite a few different sizes, I prefer the smaller (#32) diameters as on the larger butts it really fattens up the handle.

I use U40 rod bond epoxy to stick them on but I first fit the cord dry just to make sure I have every thing looking the way I want it. Often times I'll use the hard green Halibut leader cord and the black seine cord which gives a color contrast and a non slip texture.

To actually apply I take a bodkin and fray out the end of the cord and just over wrap the cord on it's self just like we do with thread. This cuts down on a lump always start from the tip end and work your way back, twist and pack the wraps so you don't get unsightly gaps and finish off with a 5x8 by three runs Turks head.

I never have used any sort of topcoat finish on the wraps and have never had a problem with them, once the U40 sets up that's pretty much it. As for the butt end I'll generally secure the bitter end with 8-10 wraps of black E nylon and since by this time there's sure to be some U40 smeared around I coat the thread with that. Have some rags around and plenty of alcohol.

I have an old Sabre 870H I did around 20 years ago like this and other than the grip getting a little bit of silver gray salty look it's just as tight as the day I made it.

The only down side of real black seine cord is that the black stuff is a tar and it can rub off a little on your hands but this is an east fix... When the wifezilla isn't looking I run my cord on an open wheel I made with some lath and just run it through the dishwasher on the pot cycle, the heavy duty soap and extra hot water cure that problem right away, let the stuff dry out a few days before using it.