I must be slow. I have always used Crystal Coat and liked the nearly unlimited pot life (freeze batches and reuse etc..) but thought I would jump on the LS boat. I couldn't get the threads and butt coated before it got too thick!! I like the nearly one coat application (crystal coat sometimes required 4 or more) but don't like the idea of having to mix two batches for one rod
So I figure I am a pokey at finish application. What are your techniques? I know this will open a long thread but where I am slow is getting a straight finish edge off the ends of the wraps. Any secrets? Also, have a terrible time trying to keep the finish striaght right next to the heel of the guidefoot. Do most of you apply with the blank rotating or by hand? How do you get a good straight finish edge and particularly how do you do it aroung the guidefoot.

I give the credit for my new found finishing abilities to the book Rod Building Guide. If you haven't read the included chapter on finishing, you should, it will do wonders for your technique.

I have used the LSSupreme and seem to get about 45 mintues of useable pot life. That's really much more than I need so after I mix it I pour it out onto a flat surface and let it sit for about 5 minutes or so. In that time all the bubbles come out on their own and then it's ready for use. I load the brush and hold it above the rod while rotating the rod underneath it. Get the book and read it carefully. If it can help a fumble fingers like me it can help you too.

If you aren't getting much pot life I can only assume that maybe it is very warm where you are working or are you heating it? Higher temps would seem to greatly reduce the working time.

Make sure your mixture is EXACTLY 50-50 by using graduated syringes and make at least 3 cc's in a batch. A slight bit more of hardner can shorten pot life.

I use a slow rotating motor and apply with a brush from the top very sparingly. Complete all wraps,,, then wet a small section of paper towel with alcohol, fold to a sharp edge, lay the sharp edge against the wrapping edge (like working a lathe). As the rod rotates it will even up the wrapping edge by removing any finisher that has run out over the blank. I like a little "overflow" as long as it's straight so I actually hold the paper towel about 1/64 inch away from the wrapping edge. LS 2000 will normally spread very evenly along the edge of the rotating blank after the excess is removed.

Between guide feet of double footed guides the best solution is not to let the finisher flow over the bare area unless you intend to cover the entire area. It's extremly hard to even up because of the rotating guide frame.

Capt. Harold

The advice above is all right on. I usually work at about 77 - 80 degrees and find I have ample pot life. After complete mixing I pour the polymer onto a clean piece of tin foil. Once I've applied the initial coat and gone back and removed some of the finish to leave just a 'wet look' I still have time to touch up for at least 20 minutes (at this time the finish has thickened somewhat and I apply droplets with a very fine bodkin).

Andy

I guess I am being too particular, because it takes me 30-45 minutes to finish one rod. Guess I better quit being to slow. Is it possible to mix like .2cc less hardener than resin and get extended pot life?, or will this cause it to never setup correctly?

Follow the directions exactly - mix 50:50 or trouble will follow.

Andy