I have an old 8' fiberglass flyrod, that I would like to strip down completely. The reel seat, handle, guides, thread, have all been removed. The finish is in bad shape. I would like to refinish it. What is the best way to remove old finish, what kind of finish color, paint, varnish is used from manufacturers when they decide on a color, can anyone use a can of quality spray paint, if so what kind is durable before adding a coat of some gloss finish to protect the surface of the blank.

I always scrap the old finish off with a knife. Do not cut in to the blank itself. Then i sand it with 320 - 400 wet sand paper. Lots of water. Once it is very smooth, dry it well !! Very well. Even a hair dryer works well. I then spray it with an Auto Spray paint. Lacquer !. Dries fast. Let sit for about a day. Some times I hit it again several times with a drier then very fast coat of Permagloss. make shore it has no dust on it. Play with a scrap piece of blank it is a little tricky. I also tape a hook on the butt end to hang it up to dry.

I strip with a citrus stripper, works very well. Use a little heat to strip off any leftover epoxy or varnish. Then do as Bill suggests. I don't use Permagloss though. I'm afraid of it eating the paint. I use three coats of Automotive clear coat over the paint. The key is to let it totally dry and harden, or the threads will dig into the finish Sometimes it takes up to a week, depending on the weather in your area, but at least 3 days.

Bill in WV

I have re-finished so many fiberglass rods I hate to mention the number. I have found after many different trial and errors the best ways are to strip with a citrus stripper [like William Bartlett says]...next wet sand [with water] with 400 wet/or dry paper at least five times...next coat withautomotive spray primer, gas wet sand lightly, do this appx. 4 times and wear gloves...always wait between sandings until completely dry...now color spray with automotive lacquer four times lightly, one more gas sand, let dry, two more coats of color, and four coats of clear automotive lacquer or clear coat. All of these supplies can be purchased at a automotive store in small touch-up spray cans in many colors [also at Wal Mart] This will come
out looking better than glass, and have alot of depth to the blank. Main thing is take your time and lots of drying,and use a tack rag with no silicone
added between sandings.
Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fred

hello ,
i was reading this post and read the methods that the 3 of ya'll use in redoing a blank. i was just wondering : won't the paint crack once it is under a load? the reason i ask is because this happened to me. my dad had a friend paint a fiberglass rod with that expensive house of color automotive paint. i taped all the guides on and did my static stress test, then did my static casting test. it happened to be a nice sunny day and as i was walking back inside to start wrapping the rod i happened to notice the blank as the light hit it just right and it had a whole bunch of small cracks in the paint from when the rod flexed. that is the first rod that i have had that happen to, and i was glad i noticed it before wrapping it. any thoughts on this one? thanks dave daniels.

I would think that it was not prepped correctly. I've painted many many rods and never experienced that.

Think about it. You see a wrecked car, and typically the paint only cracks or flakes where there are creases. Bend a rod until it creases, and paint is probably the least of your concerns.

The key is to use an adhesion promoter. This is what I use for my primer. You find it in the Automotive section where they sell the car paint at WalMart or at any Auto parts store. Comes in a spray can, made by PlasiCote, I think. It's the stuff they spray on plastic bumper parts to keep the paint flexible so it doesn't crack.

Bill in WV

I have never had a paint problem [cracking] from flexing the blank. I can understand if you really build up alot of paint [enamel] but if you use a paint such as lacquer prime and color, and you sand as all of us stated above there should be no problem. Look at the "e" glass of today and you see
no cracking and they dip their blanks which tends to make a larger build up. I have never used a adhesion promoter but I think it would also work to your advantage. I think the key is the color sanding [wet/or dry]. If you take a new blank and color change you do not have to do all the sanding that you do when you refinish a old rod and make sure all voids are filled.
Experiment....Experiment.....Experiment......
Tight Lines
Tight Wraps
Fred

I just painted two blanks with House of Colors airbrush paint and gave them a good stress test with no cracking of the paint. I have to agree with Fred and Royce the key to a great paint job lies in the preparation. Royce's analogy is a good one.
Tim

What is "gas wet sanding"? I'm in the middle of painting a blank and I've got it primered and I'm ready to wet sand the primer. Should I just use water or is gas wet sanding something better? I've never heard of it.

Thanks,
Terry

Computer on the fritz...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2007 09:05PM by Terry Reece.

Fred you say you have refinished alot of rods i was wondering if this also applies to grapite or carbon fiber rods im not sure if there is a differnce but im trying to learn how to refinish fly rods and, i was also wondering what you mean by gas wet sand im not familiar with that term. Can you please help!!!