After starting out with another brand, I've switched over to the new LS Supreme finish for thread wraps, and like the way it applies, with one exception. I seem to get a lot of tiny bubbles even after following the directions to let it set up in a shallow container before applying. I use a brush to apply, and the problem appears to be more pronounced when using NCP thread. My questions are, (1) if I use a spatula of some type can I expect fewer bubbles, (2) is there any truth to what I've heard that NCP thread produces more bubbles than standard nylon thread, and (3) although not recommended by Trondak, will the use of a little judiciously-applied heat from an alcohol burner help or harm the situation?

Bob - I have the same problem with it. I think we are applying too much at one time. I think the first coat should just soak into the threads and displace any air that might be in between the twists of thread. Then on the next coat, you could apply a tad more and worry less about the bubbles because all the air that was in between those threads has been displaced by the first coat of epoxy.

I have also applied a bit of heat to the epoxy, but that didn't help - and if heated too much the epoxy will burn and leave you with a mess - not even worth it.

Billy

I have just put it on there, bubbles and all. Leave it alone and they go away by themselves. No heat, just patience.

Sully good point - by applying too much brush pressure me, you, or anyone else may be squeezing the bubbles out of the brush and onto the wrap.

John - You are right - most of the bubbles do go away, and I should have stated that in my first post. However, even when I let it sit there will be 1-2 tiny bubbles. Really nitpicking here aren't we (I)?? The only place there are bubbles are: where I applied too much on the first coat. (also I seem to be good at contaminating the spot where I pull under metallic threads on trim bands - my fault though)

Billy

Sully good point - by applying too much brush pressure me, you, or anyone else may be squeezing the bubbles out of the brush and onto the wrap.

John - You are right - most of the bubbles do go away, and I should have stated that in my first post. However, even when I let it sit there will be 1-2 tiny bubbles. Really nitpicking here aren't we (I)?? The only place there are bubbles are: where I applied too much on the first coat. (also I seem to be good at contaminating the spot where I pull under metallic threads on trim bands and underwraps??- my fault though)

Billy

It was my understanding that you really shouldn't heat the LS finishes. Something about the type hardener that it uses will only boil into more bubbles if you apply heat to it. The directions caution against the use of heat.

Does the LS finish turn yellow over time and use in the sun? I have not heard of this stuff myself. Been makin rods for 20 years and still use flex-coat. Heat and all. I never have any problems unless I mix it wrong. My coatings look like glass and have no bubbles.

But, you brush to hard or dont fill the brush first, you will get bubbles, just like painting the house. First swipe with a brush that is not completely covered inside and out will cause bubbles. a little extra harder keeps the bubbles down for me best, then i apply the light heat and it goes real well - cause you want the finish to run and fill up the crevices. If the LS doesnt do that, I wont use it. ITs just differrent strokes for differrent folks huh? By the way - make very sure you observe the ambient temperature when you apply the finish - to cold it bubbles more and more slowly - go by the manufactuers instructions.

regards

oldsalt

1) Make sure you "fill" the brush first. Load it well with LS the sqeeze out on side of dish and repeat 2-3 times. This removes air from the brush.

2) For the first coat, apply thin and continuos from tip of guide foot in. This forces the air out in one direction and escapes easily from under the guide foot. Sound anal-retentive, but it is the small things that produce elegance and craftsmanship.
elrod

According to what I read in the RodMaker review the LS Supreme uses chemicals that won't turn yellow or brown even after long term sun exposure. That would seem to be a plus on rods with light colored threads where the yellowing would show up.