For the new standard tip over butt ferrules, how much of the ferrule should the wrap cover? I've been told by a friend that it should cover the whole length of the ferrule to ensure strength, but that can exceed three inches, on even a small rod, which looks funny and adds a lot of weight. I know the butt end of the female needs to be well protected, but should wraps and/or epoxy reach all the way up to where the male insert ends?

Rob, I have never seen damage up in the ferrule just at the entrance of the ferrule. I personnally only wrap about 1/4 inch as close to the opering of the ferrule as possible. This has never failed me but longer wraps may be used if you feel more secure.

That's what I figured. I've never wrapped more than a half inch to an inch myself. One more question though. I noticed the ferrule wall had a very small chip in it on the very end of one of my Loomis fly rod ferrules. The ferrule plug seems down in the male section a little far leaving the rim exposed to further weakening and potential damage. Would I be advised to fill this up to the rim with epoxy or finish? Is this good practice in general where ferrule reinforcement plugs don't come all the way flush?

I have always used a ferrule wrap that was as long as twice the diameter of the ferrule opening. What is important, is to get the wrap as close to the edge as possible. If you can prevent a split-out here, it really can't develop elsewhere. And a split-out is exactly what that wrap is there to help prevent. (Don's 1/4 inch is likely more than enough as well, I just came up with a formula so the wraps would look a bit more uniform on multi-piece rods.)

You really should have something in that male ferrule opening. Try to go in from the opposite end and push it back where it needs to be. If the fit is poor, you can make a "plug" with Rod Bond that will serve the same purpose, but perhaps even better.

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Rob: I agree with Tom. I use the formula L=3D. L being the length of the wrap, and D being the Diameter of the female section where the wrap will go. This provides me with a nice tapered look on multi-piece rods, with each wrap being a little shorter as they progress from the butt to the tip section. John

Be careful in using metallic thread for the ferrule wraps. Some metallics are not as strong as the nylon thread and can cause splitting of the ferrule. Not in all instances, but a few times. I will use a 1/4" nylon wrap then my metallic to be safe. Try to match the color as close as possible, or use black nylon. Better to explain this color difference than repair a tip section.

This is what I do. If the furrel is four inches long as new, and the diameter of the blank is not over half in inches. I shall wrap
no less than 1 inches at two places. One as close to the furrel as possible and the other warp starting at 3.5 inches if the furrel
overlap is 4' long. This shall give you two strengthening point. The more aggressive design like the British blank, Sage I would
highly recommneded you do so since the furrel contact point inside can apply considerable strength to the top blank. As you may
discover those are all large tube but thin wall design. This is espeically true for non perfect fitting furrel in the older model blanks
I have encounter. I got a change to see the first batch of blank coming out of taiwan using what I believe is old Loomis
equipment, the tip over butt blanks were not as perfect which make this a absolute necessarity. Wax alone is not enough.

One more thing, I have very good luck with the Gudebrod HT thread although a metalic thread but VERY strong.

Good fishing (catching) <*)))))))><{