I've just finished turning my first reelseat. I started with 1.5" X 1.5" Walnut blank and went after it with a 1/2" gouge. It took about three hours just to get it turned down to the correct diameter. Is this the normal amout of time for a project like this. Does anyone have any tips for speeding up the process.

Thanks,
Mike Jansson

Mike,

My suggestions would be the obvious ones you have probably already figured out. Start with a 1"x 1" blank instead of 1.5". A metal lathe will turn these out very quickly. It takes me about 10 minutes to go from raw wood to a blank ready to be morticed. I'm no woodsmith, so perhaps some of those who use a wood lathe will be more help.

Good luck,
Harry Boyd

Mike,

My suggestions would be the obvious ones you have probably already figured out. Start with a 1"x 1" blank instead of 1.5". A metal lathe will turn these out very quickly. It takes me about 10 minutes to go from raw wood to a blank ready to be morticed. I'm no woodsmith, so perhaps some of those who use a wood lathe will be more help.

Good luck,
Harry Boyd

I agree with Harry. It shouldn't take very long and I don't have a metal lathe. I never timed myself on turning one, but I suspect to go from square stock to a cylinder ready for sanding, buffing and polishing may take 10-15 minutes. On some woods I go slower. Some brittle or really hard ones may take another 5-10 minutes.

I don't know anything about wood turning, but have wanted to take a class on the proper care and use of tools. I some how get things done, by luck I suppose.

I still have problems with mortising and wind up ruining several before I get it right (or fashion a seat that doens't need one). I would like to hear from Harry the method he uses.

I agree with Harry. The best thing I ever did was to buy a Taig Micro lathe, which is a small metal lathe. I rough the blanks on my wood lathe (keep your tools sharp) and finis them on the taig which is very precise. The Custom Powerwrap people sell the same lathe under their brand name.

John,

To cut the mortice I use a router setup similar to that described in Wayne Cattanach's book, Jack Howell's book, and Bob Milward's book. All are bamboo books, btw. Basically, one uses a fingernail, or half-radius bit and a fixed fence. The drilled insert blank is held in a jig which is simply a bolt through two pieces of wood. The router bit you want is part # C1215 from Grizzly imports, or an exact duplicate from another mfr. Bob Venneri made one for me that I received just a few weeks ago and haven't used yet.

A coupla tips might help. First, turn a handful of blanks to the correct sizes. This isn't a "one-off" proposition. I usually turn some straight grained walnut or cherry blanks to use as guinea pigs for the routing set-up. It usually takes about two or three tries to get the bit at the correct height, etc. Once you get the router bit set to the correct height, and the fence set to the correct position, don't move anything. Run all the reel seats through as a batch.

If you are turning seats for REC uplocking reel seats, one end of the mortice needs to be just a hair deeper than the other. I turn the blanks to .720" od, and set the fence on the router table at an angle that allows the front or cork end of the seat to be morticed about .010" deeper. Otherwise things won't fit well.

I find that a smooth, medium-fast feed works well with the router turning at full speed.

And don't be surprised when some of the fancy burls we use to make reel seats blow out on you. I just mark that up to the cost of rolling our own.

Hope this helps... and let me know if I can help further.

Harry Boyd
www.canerods.com

Can you turn wood on a standard Renzetti rod lathe, and if not, what are the best wood lathes out there for the money? I've been looking at a Grissly mini wood lathe. Any special features to look for in a lathe for turning both wood and cork?

Even with a 1.5 inch square blank, it should only take a minute or two to reduce the blank to the required diameter. If your wood is not coming off as shavings you are not doing something right. What does it look like as it comes off - dust? Chips? Either indicates a basic turning flaw.

With a sharp wood gouge you should be able to turn the insert as quickly or more quickly than a metal lathe will do it.

If you plan on doing much of this, invest in some turning classes at your local community college or craft shop. Rent a video or a book. It's fun and it's easy. I have wood lathes and metal lathes. If I need to turn lots of inserts I use the metal lathe, but to just knock out a couple or three, the wood lathe wins hands down. The metal lathe is precise, but a qualified wood turner on any wood lathe is just as precise and has more fun! (There are some special tools that allow you to be VERY precise even working freehand.)

The Renzetti will easily turn most American soft or hardwoods with the optional tool rest and live center. For the really hard, tough exotics, a dedicated wood or metal lathe is best.

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To keep from making undersize inserts, get a spindle sizing tool. It works with either a parting or bedan tool. Makes easy work of sizing and guarantees you won't take off too much.

Packard Woodworks at packard@alltel.net has them. Most other turning supply stores do as well.

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I guess I'm not as smart as Harry because I can't picture what you are talking about. However, I'd LOVE to build one because I'm using the Wayne Cattanach method and it is a little inconsistent for my liking.

Can you describe it in more detail? Thanks!

Gotta agree with Bill. I guess I'm a little thick. You lost me.

Got the router, got the bit, don't got the jig to hold the thing