I'm having trouble with the finish over the inscription or decal area of the blank. I've used Flex Coat Lite, LS 2000, and LS Supreme on wraps and had no problem. What I can't seem to do is get that super level finish over the inscription area. I put a thin layer over the matte finish blank on the last rod and then put a decal on and finished it. I've put it on as thin as I thought possible and brushed lenghtwise and it still comes out slightly wavy. With the LS Supreme I put it on so thin that the brush strokes would not level out no matter how hard I tried. I followed the instructions in Rodmaker and sanded down with 600 grit to a level surface and tried Flex Coat Lite. It came out much better but still a little wavy. Most people would not notice but since it's my own rod I don't want to think about it everytime I use it. I've now sanded down to a level finish and I'm ready to put on another coat.
Can anyone give me any pointers? I would like to use the LS Supreme because of its clarity but any finish would be o.k. at this point. I am using a high quality brush also.

Thanks for any help.

Ron

Ron,

I would have to admit to being a little stumped at this point as to your problem's source. I normally can get a finish that is as level and smooth as that on the blank when finishing these inscription areas. By putting on just enough finish so that you can draw or pull it out with lengthwise brush strokes it usually turns out quite nice.

I'm going to suggest something that will only take a little time and one batch of finish. Get a scrap piece of rod blank and prepare several areas for a test. Apply finish in varing amonts and with different applicators (brush, spatula, etc.) in the same length and style you use on your inscriptions. Try and see if you can find a particular method and application technique that works best for you. You could also do this with several finishes and see if one suits this task better than the others in your case.

Wish I could be more help, but what you are doing normally works fine. Please follow up with any information as you come across it. Surely we can get your inscription areas nice and smooth in due course.

........................

.

What are you using for the inscrition? ink, paint, ???

Hi Ron,

I doubt this will help much (heck, if Tom K is stumped, why am I posting?), but the last inscription I did, I noticed I got a nice level finish if I used more than a "really thin" amount of finish.

Like you, I did one coat of a finish that was so thin that the brush strokes would remain after I stroked it lengthwise. That finish ended up very wavy, like you describe. I'm just supposing here, but I think there wasn't sufficient amount of finish for it to properly "flow" in the area over and around the inscription. Hopefully Ralph will chime in here and talk to us about how much epoxy is required for it to properly distribute itself and level over such an area on a rod blank.

The next time, I used more finish, and it levelled very well. I didn't glob it on real thick, but I used noticeably more than I did before. When you do your test coats as Tom mentioned, trying doing a few with a bit *more* epoxy to see what happens. I also did *not* do lengthwise strokes. I just let the epoxy run off my brush like on a normal wrap. I sort of treated the inscription like a big thread wrap - just returning to the dish for epoxy for each little bit of rod surface. I tried to be uniform in the amount I put on per application, but it wasn't perfect. Then I walked away and left it alone. It levelled beautifully. Not a wave visible in the reflected sunlight.

Also, make sure you check the level of the blank in your turning motor, and see if you can eliminate any bumps or wobbles or whatever while it is rotating. I had a motor once that had a rough spot that would bounce the blank a little once each turn. I never did get a good finish with that thing. Even now sometimes the blank doesn't come off the motor really smooth, so I drape a washcloth over the blank to hold it steady as it turns. I don't know if that really makes much of a difference, but it makes me feel better. This might be another of Ralph's witch hunts.

So - for me at least - my keys are a smooth turning level blank - and enough finish to flow and reach a level state.

Bob

Bob I think you got the answer,I do a lot of decal work and have found using a little more finish makes things easier,if using a high build epoxy you can try to apply it a little thinner but with the lower build epoxy use a little more,Toms advice re testing might be the best advice ever posted on any board,it can save a lot of time and unnecessary agravation

Is the finish wavey or does the delcal lift? If the finish is wavey take a razor blad and carefuly remove the high spots. then add another coat if finish. Do this carefully

Bob Petti has the right idea and so does John. The problem remains though, until you can define just what is enough finish to flow and reach a level state. Here's what I do. It is a well known fact that I am addicted to the spatula for application of epoxy finishes, but for the uninitiated a brush can be used with this method. Apply a liberal amount of finish to a turning rod. I turn at about 150 to 200 RPM's or thereabouts. Scoop enough on the area to be covered so that all threads are covered --I'm talking about a first coat onto bare threads. You should have enough on the wrap so that it is obvious there is to much. Now take the flat of your spatula and while the rod is turning, apply the flat side of the spatula to one end of the wrap and move it laterelly toward the other end. You will leave behind a spiral effect as though you were threading the wrap. Repeat this in both directions several times until the spiral effect is uniform throughout the wrap length. When you have this obvious uniformity, remove your spatula and observe the epoxy leveling itself. At this stage, transfer your work to your dryer/turner and let it gel.. When you learn this trick it will harden out perfectly level every time. This is the secret to making a one coat application to butt wraps. O'h incidentally I use only LS Supreme for this operation.
It is possible to use a brush on this spiraling operation, but it never turns out perfectly level as it does with a spatula, because the brush is -- well its a brush and not stiff and rigid, which is what is needed for a perfect job. You get just as bad an application by applying to little as you do when applying to much. The visible spirals is a neat method to judge visually how much is enough. Do this a few times on a practise wrap and you will get a feel for what is the optimum amount for the first coat, then if needed the optimum for a second coat. I have never seen any application where a third coat is necessary or desireable when using LS Supreme with this method.
Ralph

Like Ralph does, I use a spatula. After aplying the finish I stop the blanks rotation long enough for the finish to form drops on the underside of the blank. then with the EDGE of my spatula I just touch th drops and they will transfer to the spatula. this will remove the excess finish if you want a lite coat. once I do this I continue the rotation. You have to remember to work with a lot of pot life left so it will hve plenty of time to finish flowing out.