Does anyone use Gudebrod one part finish? What experience does anyone have? Would I have problems with single foot guides pulling out of place without the adhesion epoxy finishes give? I like epoxy finish (flex coat); however, do not like the strict timeline associated with application. I would also like to try a lower build.

Epoxy finishes don't offer much in the way of adhesive power. Forget about that.

I've used the Gudebrod finish mostly for quick repair work. It dries fast, so a few coats can be applied in a morning. It's remarkably good stuff, in my opinion, and can be cleaned up with water. I've not used it for all out guide finishing on a custom rod, but frankly I suspect you could get very good results with it. But you will require several coats of finish to get decent depth.

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The Gudebrod 1 part is a little like nail varnish. Goes on quickly, quite fluid, easy cleanup, quick dry. I used to use it for quick repairs too.

Needs lots of coats for depth. Also, water cleanup makes me edgy, as my rods get very wet whenever I fish. Even in a boat, so what goes for wade fishing (my favorite). It's gotta be a tough epoxy or lovingly applied Permagloss for me.

I love it and would say it has become my favorite finish. I typically use 4 or 5 thin coats to get a nice flat perfect finish that covers all the thread texture but no more. It has a color preserving effect too so you don't see the guide feet when you're done. My most used rod has 3 or 4 years of use on it and no signs of wear. Still nice and glossy. It has the benefits of Permagloss without the brain damage. Easy clean-up, no fumes.

What is the shelf life after it is opened?

I built about a rod per week or so on average. I buy the 1 oz. bottles and probably do 25 rods with one bottle. By the time I get to the bottom, the finish is still fluid enough to flow easily although it takes only 3 coats instead of 4-5 coats. I use the expensive red sable brushes and they last longer than the 1 oz. bottle if you rinse them well in warm water.

The Gudebrod finish sounds interesting. I just used Permagloss on a fly rod I built a couple of weeks ago and like it a lot. The biggest drawback was the fumes!

How 'bout drying time and bubble release? I'm on a rush this vacation so keeping build time down is definitely a good thing. Keeping it really simple on the spin-fly until I get my feet on firm ground.

No bubble problem and dries in most conditions in 1 hour between coats, faster if you put a light bulb near it. Try it you'll like it. I've done many rods where I put the first coat on at 6 am. and it's done by noon with 4-5 coats and looks beautiful. Gotta go catch a train so hasta la vista.

A friend of mine has used nothing but Gudebrod for all his rods. When it gets a little thick, he uses it for the guide wraps, which makes for a little higher build, then after applying the last coat to the wraps, uses newer, thinner stuff for the rest of the rod. When applying it to the blank for a finish, don't try to go back over it to smooth it, just put it on fairly heavy in one pass then put it your power rod turner to dry. If you are getting bubbles, you need to get more on the brush when applying. If you don't care for the high gloss look, buff it slightly with grey scotch-brite which gives it a slight matt look.
Murf

Al,
I also use it for quick repair jobs. I put it on, let it sit for a few minutes then heat it up with a blow dryer on low heat. It dries fast so I can do multiple coats in a short amount of time if my customer is in somewhat of a hurry.
Hope this helps,
Noel

used the one and two part regular build like it alot easy to work with
joe.

When I'm going to put a decal on a matte finished blank, I need to put an undercoat of epoxy on first, wait 24 hours, then the decal, wait 6-12 hours, then the final coat of epoxy. How about the Gudebrod 1-part for the undercoat, to shorten the time? Can you then put a 2-part on over it?

Tom Doyle: The guides on my current rod were "set" in place after aligning and wrapping, with Gudebrod one part, then coated wiith two part Cabela's finish. This is just on the guide wraps, not the rod itself. The results were very satisfactory to me. Haven't finished or used it yet so can't say about longevity of the job. I've heard a few long time builders say two part epoxy is perfectly compatible over the Gudebrod one part. I'm doing the same thing with a factory label, one coat Gudebrod, scuff lightly, apply a second coat, this information from another long time builder.
Just a beginner, Murf

I agree with Fred. 1-part Gudebrod finish looks to be much more safer over decals than Permagloss (at least for me). And yes, it acts as a kind of color preserver, thread not goes as dark with it as with Permagloss or epoxy.

Pavel

I used the Gudebdod one part finish on one rod that I built, and didn't like the results, after about a dozen times getting wet the finish started to come off. But I haven't had problems with the guides coming out.

That's the very reason I stopped using it, and am still worried about it. I have a lot of friend who are now wade fishing converts, and the older repairs I did for them did not hold up too well after they took to getting seriously wet in pursuit of finned opponents.

Has anyone tried Permagloss over Gudebrod 1 part? I'd love to try that. Fast absorption + CP effect + sealing, and then ultra-tough urethane over it. Theory vs practice, please!

The Gudebrod 822 is a water-based varnish. It's similar (or the same) as many craft water-based varnishes -- I've compared it to varnish form Folk Art and Alene's and it's really just about the same stuff. (Let's face it -- as a thread maker, Gudebrod is not manufacturing the stuff, just repackaging it.) If you read up on wood finishing you'll see that water-based finishes have come a long way in the last few years but are not as durable as oil-based ones. (Yes, polyurethanes like Minwax spar urethane and "fast-drying poly" are oil-based. Check the label for what the thinner is -- if its mineral spirits, the stuff is oil-based.)

The best qualities of the Gudebrod 822 or other craft varnishes are that they dry fast and they hold the thread very well, as pointed out in an earlier post (not as good as formal color preserver, but pretty close). I've used it successfully (2-3 coats) as an undercoat for both epoxy, traditional spar, and spar urethane. But I feel strongly that something more durable should be the top coat.

--Rich

Gudebrod 1 part has code number 840. 822 is the finish restorer, packaged with a brush.

Gudebrod 822 is "Rod Varnish". Gudebrod 840 is "Rod Finish". Gudebrod 442 is "Rod Restorer".

Both the 822 and 840 are water-based varnish of the craft variety. (I think this means no acrylics like the milky white stuff you get for wood finishing). They both have the same very slight darkening effect on thread. I've only used 822 on rods -- and only tested the 840.

I don't know anything about the 442.