Folks, you don't need CP unless you are using a light colored thread that you don't want to turn translucent. CP is good for displacing air pockets in the thread to help avoid finish bubbles, but that's about it.

I started building rods in '86 and was a firm believer in CP. Around '90 or so, I quit using it on dark threads. Over the past couple of years, some of those rods have come back for repair. I haven't been able to detect a major difference in the fading of the thread using either method.

Finishing without CP, IMHO gives a better bonding and strength to the wrap assembly as you have more of a monolithic structure bonding the foot and thread to the blank. You will also find less rusting of guide feet without using CP.

This is just from my in-experienced perspective.

I think the article in the recentd RodMaker pretty much dispeled the myth that CP somehow affects the strength or durability of the guide wraps. I use it all the time now and with the tips they gave for the proper use of it I no longer have any problems with it. I don't like the dark transparent looking wraps and want my thread colors to stay bright and vibrant. Now they do and I don't lose any strength or lengevity.

When I was building rods, I liked using CP. I found that the colors of my thread were much more vibrant as well.

Interestingly enough, I started building a steelhead rod and I wrapped on all the guides. I applied several coats of U-40 Color Lock, but didn't have a chance to apply finish before the steelhead runs began.

I took the rod out, hoping for the best. Guess what? The CP itself has provided protection to the thread wraps. I have fished in the rain, and have never applied finish to the wraps to this day! After 10 years, it's still holding up very well, with just CP applied.

The debate over whether or not to use color preserver will continue, and basically it's a matter of personal preference.

For keeping and showing the colors, and also will 'dull' down (darken?) to some degree I like using CP not maybe for 'necessity' but also having visited on site rod manufacturing facilities they do not use CP as a matter strictly of economy in time savings.

As a custom rodbuilder, what the heck, and give a little benefit of the doubt for preserving the color just the way you want and something extra that is not usually done with factory rods.
I too believe the 'weakening effect' by using CP is exagerated and haven't experienced wrap failures by using CP under epoxy finish.

That is interesting Ian about color lok, and am sure it will be a testimonial to the product Ralph will love to hear! Don't think I would ever have enough nerve to go 'field testing' too many rods in the CP 'finished' state. ha, ha

OK Rich here is another one for you fast repair,use clear nail polish,two or three coats,did it for an emergency repair guy needed rod for a next day trip,6 months later still holding up
John

In the article and test we did in RodMaker we reached the conclusion that whether or not to use color preserver really comes down to cosmetics only. While we did find that wraps coated directly with epoxy were a bit stronger, the strength difference was less than 10%. Thus, not using CP on the premise that it creates an inherently weak wrap is a practice based on myth rather than fact.

One interesting tidbit we did discover, was that whether you used CP or not, it is the epoxy finish that you work into the tunnel and around the area where the guide foot/leg protrudes from the wrap that really prevents the guide from twisting while under load.

Another thing we learned concerns what Ian stated above - guides treated with CP only are plenty strong enough to be fished as is, in most instances. However, they did not have much strength when they were subjected to loads that were other than either 0 or 180 degress on the guide rings. As has been pointed out many times by some excellent rod builders, guides that are positioned so that they only have to accept loads at either 0 or 180 degrees on the ring will accept far more pressure than most rod builders are aware of, without any damage or movement on the blank.

I'd still don't recommend "CP only" as a final finish, but as Ian pointed out, such wraps are stronger and will last longer than most people realize.

........................................

John
Back in the days before epoxy was invented there were rods being built using mostly silk threads. Varnish of one kind or another was the most common finish. But a few of us took to coating the threads with nitro cellulose lacquers and with with good results. It was only a simple step from a can of lacquer to a bottle of fingernail polish, because fingernail polish just happens to be nitro-cellulose lacquer and fingernail polish remover just happens to be lacquer thinner. I have had fingernail polish coated wraps last for several years -- just as good as most varnishes, and much prettier. You can get reds, blues, purples, black, -- most any color. If I recall correctly it took about 4 coats to cover. I wouldn't ever consider using it today, what with epoxy's, Urethanes, and such technologies. But for anyone in a pinch situation or merely curious -- fingernail polish does a good job.

Ralph

Ralph that probably explains why I have found the absolute cheapest nail polish works better then the more exotic brands,fewer additives,at one time it was a staple in a tackle box when making long trips,I ain't exactly young you know.