Rod Building . org Message Board http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:44:11 -0400 Phorum 5.2.11 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387225,387225#msg-387225 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387225,387225#msg-387225
Am I doing something wrong or using an incorrect thread. Its like the thread is so thin that you can see everything under the wrap.

I looked at a couple rods I did years ago and could slightly see where the end was pulled, but nothing like what im getting today.

Any ideas ??]]> Casey Abell rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:51:10 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387224#msg-387224 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387224#msg-387224 -------------------------------------------------------
> Casey,
> Why do you need to be able to move the rod by
> hand?
>
> Can't you get your wrapper to turn slow enough for
> you.
>
> A good DC gear motor setup should allow you to
> turn the rod at about 1/2 rpm - in either
> direction.
>
> Take care
> Roger

Yeah I can run the motor really slow. It may be that im kinda new to this but for some short wraps I like to turn my hand. Especially when needing to move several turn forward then reverse for just a second. By hand just seems easier for some things.]]> Casey Abell rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:47:19 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387223#msg-387223 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387223#msg-387223 Casey Abell rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:43:03 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387222#msg-387222 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387222#msg-387222 David Dosser rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:37:39 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387221#msg-387221 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387221#msg-387221 David Dosser rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:31:42 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387077,387220#msg-387220 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387077,387220#msg-387220 David Dosser rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:19:41 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387219#msg-387219 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387219#msg-387219 Also if I can't come to a reasonable solution I have tossed around the idea of building it for a different reel that has a spool 1.8" wide which would allow me to move the choke up substantially. That reel weighs more though, and I have already glued the handle that I built from burl and rubberized cork, so I feel I'm already pushing the weight a bit.]]> Jeremy Johnson rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:13:45 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387218#msg-387218 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387218#msg-387218 -------------------------------------------------------
> Okay, for starters you do not need all those guide
> sizes. They create a stair-step line path and add
> slight additional weight that helps nothing.
>
> If you already know that your line and required
> connections will pass through a #1 guide, then
> just go 20 - 12 and then all 1's to the tiptop.
> This provides a much straighter and smoother line
> path.
>
> If freezing is a consideration you'll want to go
> larger than the 1's most likely. I'd stay at least
> with #2's as the smallest size. Snake guides are
> also a bit less resistant to freezing up due to
> their shape.
>
> ...................

I was originally going to go 20-16-6 then 4's to the tip. Anyone think this would be ok? If so would the spacing be the same as if I was using the smaller diameter guides?]]> Bill Hansen rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 23:04:55 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387216,387216#msg-387216 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387216,387216#msg-387216
[www.youtube.com]

Hope you all enjoy it, especially then ending.



Let me know what else you would like me to try to put together]]> James(Doc) Labanowski rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 22:33:47 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387202,387215#msg-387215 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387202,387215#msg-387215 matthew jacobs rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 21:08:14 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387214#msg-387214 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387214#msg-387214
Eric]]> Eric Viburs rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 21:05:58 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387023,387213#msg-387213 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387023,387213#msg-387213 That's good. Hope mine turn up soon as sometimes there's a big gap between issues and withdrawal simptons set in.]]> Col Chaseling rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:43:45 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387212#msg-387212 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387212#msg-387212 -------------------------------------------------------
> I'm with Terry and Steve on that. People want
> stuff done for basically nothing yet those same
> people go into shops etc and pay exorbitant prices
> for goods and don't bat an eyelid. Takes the best
> part of a day to strip a rod properly and how many
> people are prepared to pay around $100 for the
> job!!!

Hi, Col, you're so right! i've had guys who have thought nothing of paying £250 - £300 for zziplex blanks, fuji reel seats, fuji guides, all the parts to build the rod, but when you quote them a price, they say things like that's a bit steep! when i was first starting out, after some have said remarks like that, i used to lower the price just to get the work. Not anymore i don't. If they can afford to lay out that kind of cash on a rod, they can certainly afford to pay me what i'm worth! Then i get customers who have brought me cheap and cheerful factory rods to be rebuilt, and i have told them i'm afraid for what i'm going to have to charge you, you'd be better off buying a new one, some have gone for that option, and some have said things like; i don't care, i want it done cos this is my favourite rod.]]> Steve Mcleod rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:43:24 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387167,387211#msg-387211 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387167,387211#msg-387211
It would be nice to see a larger diameter size too.]]> Don Ahart rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:42:30 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387210,387210#msg-387210 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387210,387210#msg-387210
The blank tester is a great wall mounted tool for comparing the actions of two blanks side-by-side, check them out at:
[www.mudhole.com]

Mud Hole is also offering the Backlash Tools Threaded TK Mandrels. These are great for your wood grip project or any projects that don't have a snug fit and need to be able to tighten things up to turn on the lathe. The Threaded TK Mandrels comes in four sizes 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, ½. Check them out at:
[www.mudhole.com]

Mud Hole is also carrying the Backlash Tools TK Mandrel 14-inch Stainless Steel Mandrel. These high quality precision mandrels are designed and specifically made for turning cork, EVA and wood grips. These mandrels are 14” long with a shallow shoulder cut 1” long at one end and will accept a 60 degree live center at the other end. Click below for more information:
[www.mudhole.com]

We will be adding more Backlash products as they become available in the near future.]]> Mud Hole Custom Tackle rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:35:30 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387209#msg-387209 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387209#msg-387209
..............]]> Tom Kirkman rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:34:27 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387208#msg-387208 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387068,387208#msg-387208
There is a method to the process that I developed. When the veneer is wrapped on the rod, overwrap the veneer with thread (D or E) for about an hour or two and then remove. It will be snug as a bug at that point. IF and I say IF by chance, there is shell sticking up ( I have never had this happen with my process), a drop of crazy glue would take it back down to the blank and hold it there.

If anyone wants to see my photo library, email me and I can get you to it.

Kevin]]> kevin knox rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:14:30 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387161,387207#msg-387207 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387161,387207#msg-387207 Trial fit the rod pieces so that you know exactly how they interlock.

Then, take a china marker and run it straight down the blank in the area of the splice.
Then when lining up the pieces you simply have to line up the marks on the blank and the blank pieces interlock perfectly.

In spite of the other comments, I always use a thin wall inner sleeve, as well as a thin wall outer sleeve.

Yes, I typically use fiberglass to make the repair.

One can just go to a good will, or a cast off rod box at a fishing rod store and generally can find plenty of this style rods.
When it comes time to make the repair, I chuck the inner or outersleeve in a drill and sand it down to a reasonable thickness and flexibility for the repair.

In the vast majority of cases, there is little to no less flexing of the blank in the area of the repair. This is because the repair material is a more flexible blank material and I typically make the sections rather thin.

Good luck
Roger

p.s.
I do the same as bill with the over and inner sleeve. i.e. sand, thin taper, and thin the edge . I just normally use a variable speed drill since it is generally more handy and quicker for me to use than the lathe.


\]]> roger wilson rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 20:03:06 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387023,387206#msg-387206 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387023,387206#msg-387206 Barry Chapman rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:59:46 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387205#msg-387205 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387205#msg-387205 I'm afraid that's probably always going to be the case. That's one reason why I've got no desire to get into building full time. I prefer to do it when it's suits me. I don't think I'd like to be building to a schedule as that would take all the fun out of it. Good luck to all those that can make a reasonable living from it as it's far from easy.]]> Col Chaseling rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:57:49 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387204#msg-387204 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387134,387204#msg-387204
rog]]> Roger Templon rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:55:37 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387203#msg-387203 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387203#msg-387203 Why do you need to be able to move the rod by hand?

Can't you get your wrapper to turn slow enough for you.

A good DC gear motor setup should allow you to turn the rod at about 1/2 rpm - in either direction.

Take care
Roger]]> roger wilson rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:55:27 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387202,387202#msg-387202 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387202,387202#msg-387202
I am getting ready to do a build in which the user will utilizing a new Chronarch E... I am looking for suggestions of the closest matched thread to the body of the reel.

Thanks,
Tom]]> Thomas Kaufmann rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:45:55 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387090,387201#msg-387201 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387090,387201#msg-387201 www.freewebs.com] . He carries a LOT of stuff, website is out of date but drop him an email. He usually has some good sales and discontinued stuff cheap.]]> Abram Harrison rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 19:03:42 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387200#msg-387200 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387200#msg-387200
And there are toooooo many NewBees just to get work giving cheap prices

which screws us all I hit them with a price and know they are not coming back

You can only give a low price --- so fare]]> bill boettcher rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 18:38:23 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387199#msg-387199 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387026,387199#msg-387199 Col Chaseling rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 18:28:08 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387198#msg-387198 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387198#msg-387198
If you already know that your line and required connections will pass through a #1 guide, then just go 20 - 12 and then all 1's to the tiptop. This provides a much straighter and smoother line path.

If freezing is a consideration you'll want to go larger than the 1's most likely. I'd stay at least with #2's as the smallest size. Snake guides are also a bit less resistant to freezing up due to their shape.

...................]]> Tom Kirkman rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 18:18:19 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387197#msg-387197 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387197,387197#msg-387197
I am using double foot strippers and double foot snake guides for the build.

After looking at some other resources I have calculated that the normal sized guides for this rod should be 20-16-4-4-4-2-2-2-1-1 with a 4 or 4.5 tip top. (He wants to two larger stripping guides so it is similar to the TFO rods)

Will I see any benefit from increasing the guide sizes? If so what sizes should I use.

Any help would be greatly appreciated]]> Bill Hansen rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 18:14:43 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387196#msg-387196 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387196#msg-387196
English please]]> bill boettcher rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 18:13:22 -0400 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387195#msg-387195 http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,387184,387195#msg-387195
Thanks for crossing the wires in a manner that we can all fully understand!

Gon Fishn!]]> Bill Stevens rodboard Wed, 16 May 2012 17:57:40 -0400