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        <title>Denatured alcohol</title>
        <description> Hello all,

I have 2 part question:

1.  Where do I buy denatured alcohol?  I have removed some labels from blanks and cant get the remaining glue off.  I have tried rubbing alcohol, but no good.  Will denatured handle this?  

2.  I have used cork rings glued on rod in past to make grips.  On 2 new rods i am going to be starting i have purchased preformed grips.  what is the process for gluing these on.  Seems like if i glue on blank and then rotate grip in place will it not just push all glue down rod, or will enough get inside grip to hold it?  do i just wipe down any residue on blank with the denatured alcohol?  Planning on using Rod bond for this task.  Just worried about the holding of the grip thats all.  I actually will be using the top locking Fuji spinning handle kit for these 2 rods.

Thanks for the help I am still only on my 6th built rod.  Great Site!!!

Dave</description>
        <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207910#msg-207910</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:47:50 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.11</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208302#msg-208302</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208302#msg-208302</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ If memory serves me correctly, denaturants added to ethanol are very bad tasting compounds that cannot be tolerated by humans (makes them very nauseated, tasts awful or some other reason a person couldn't get it down or keep it down).  Denaturant is required by law such that the denatured ethanol will not be used as an intoxicating beverage -- and thus, carries a lower tax rate and is sold for non-food or drinking purposes.   Methanol may be added for other chemical property reasons, but I don't believe it is considered a denaturing agent (people can and do drink methanol, and enough methanol can cause blindness and other illnesses).<br />
<br />
Rubbing alcohol is isopropanol diluted with water.<br />
<br />
Tony Mortimer]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Tony Mortimer</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 04 Nov 2006 22:59:03 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208167#msg-208167</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208167#msg-208167</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I grew up in a body shop so chemicals were common place.  Nothing like sticking my nose in a laquer thinner can right before I say &quot;dad whats this?&quot;  Sniff, Sniff.  Ohhhh, never mind.   I know we are talking about safety here but this is the method I use for removing things from sticker glue to tar to overspray paint.  I start with the weekest things first.  Water, Water and soap, windex (touch of amonia) alcohol, denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, gasoline, (tar remover) prep sol), laquer thinner, then acetone.  A person should also consider what is being cleaned off as well.  If its glass,  nothing I have mentioned will hurt it.  fiberglass or graphite,  I wouldnt move beyond prepsol.  Plastic, lots of elbow grease.  You never know exactly how it will react.  Once you have wrecked a few things you will learn what will and what will not work.  Lets call it lifes lessons.  Many people dont know the answer so you have to find out for yourself.   The second thing I always say is &quot;assume everything is flamable&quot;.  That way theres no problems later when your eyebrows are missing and you say to yourself.  $#IT !   I didnt know that was flammable.   Good luck,   G]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Grant King</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 03 Nov 2006 17:28:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208076#msg-208076</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208076#msg-208076</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ed,<br />
<br />
We've already run that article.<br />
<br />
..........]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 02 Nov 2006 22:57:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208013#msg-208013</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,208013#msg-208013</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Gary Richmond</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 02 Nov 2006 11:21:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207999#msg-207999</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207999#msg-207999</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Chris Karp Wrote:<br />
-------------------------------------------------------<br />
&gt; Have used WD-40 to remove the gummy stuff, but<br />
&gt; would not even suggest it around threadwork, or a<br />
&gt; rod building work area that might be contaminated,<br />
&gt;  seeing as Gum-out was mentioned I will intordues<br />
&gt; it.<br />
<br />
WD 40 is mostly kerosene, a little of oil and some “secret ingredient”, your usually better off with straight kero to avoid the oil. A good way of removing  label adhesive is to grab it using some adhesive tape, sound funny I know but it often works  well where as solvent often just spreads it around more.  <br />
<br />
Regards Charlie<br />
<br />
]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Charles Clayton</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 02 Nov 2006 03:14:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207984#msg-207984</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207984#msg-207984</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Anyone can get MSDS's for chemicals online at this web site<br />
<br />
Hope this helps<br />
<br />
[<a href="http://hazard.com/msds/" rel="nofollow" >hazard.com</a>]<br />
<br />
Regards<br />
<br />
Scott]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Scott Ryan</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 22:43:01 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207973#msg-207973</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207973#msg-207973</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I would like to meet wilh Ralph O'Quinn, Cliff Hall, Mark Blomme, Bill (Nitro methane) Stevens, and any other professional chemist, in High Point, to combine our efforts to  publish an article in Rodmaker Magizine on the SAFE handling proceedures of organic solvents.  So many post have been on this site that I fear someone is going to get hurt by misshandleing these things.  If nothing else post the MSDS's on these materials.  I have seen so many post on the wrong way to use these things that I fear someone is going to get hurt.<br />
<br />
Ed Smith<br />
Flat Rock, NC<br />
]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ed Smith</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 20:40:24 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207957#msg-207957</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207957#msg-207957</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Make sure you do not use &quot;Denatured Alcohol Solvent&quot; when cleaning glue off blanks or any other thinner as far as that goes. I have had several calls from consumers in the past ten years complaining that there finish is comming off there blanks when they clean them. They bought by mistake Denatured Alchol Solvent instead of Denatured Alcohol.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Karry Batson</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 17:29:37 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207955#msg-207955</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207955#msg-207955</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I use isopropyl&quot;rubbing&quot; alcohol 91%  for rod building purposes. Try an &quot;art gum&quot; eraser, the soft almost crumbly kind, to gently rub off the adhesive from labels. It usually works, even on matte finishes. If not, then try Go-Gone or whatever. Ralph ]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Ralph D. Jones</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 17:07:40 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207953#msg-207953</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207953#msg-207953</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dave,<br />
Isopropyl alcohol(C3H7OH) and denatured alcohol are not the same.  Denatured alcohol is mostly ethanol(C2H5OH) (found in beer, moonshine, whiskeys, and wine).  It is denatured by adding methanol(CH3OH) (very toxic) and/or other compounds that are also toxic. Under no circumstances should denatured alcohol be consumed--you can die from it.  The main reason it is made poisonous is to evade the alcohol tax on ethanol.<br />
<br />
Mike Blomme]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Michael Blomme</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 16:52:24 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207949#msg-207949</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207949#msg-207949</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I use Simple Green to get rid of most label residue and then follow-up with a wipe of alcohol or naptha (i.e. lighter fluid).]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Steve Wilson</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 16:37:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207946#msg-207946</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207946#msg-207946</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Have used WD-40 to remove the gummy stuff, but would not even suggest it around threadwork, or a rod building work area that might be contaminated,  seeing as Gum-out was mentioned I will intordues it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Chris Karp</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 16:18:16 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207943#msg-207943</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207943#msg-207943</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Re: About solvents 	Cliff Hall 	01-04-2005   11:15AM	<br />
[<a href="http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,128901,128927#msg-128927" rel="nofollow" >www.rodbuilding.org</a>]<br />
<br />
There are many Posts on this subject (Solvents, Alcohol, Acetone, etc.).<br />
Here's a brief refresher and some definitions .<br />
<br />
DENATURED ALCOHOL = 91% ETHANOL + 5% METHANOL + 4% WATER<br />
<br />
ETHANOL = the &quot;ALCOHOL&quot; found in beer, wine &amp; liquor.<br />
<br />
METHANOL = the &quot;WOOD&quot; alcohol. Highly toxic when ingested.<br />
<br />
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL = the &quot;rubbing alcohol&quot;. Usually 70% or 91%.<br />
<br />
ACETONE = the &quot;nail polish remover&quot; ketone. Powerful solvent.<br />
<br />
METHYL ETHYL KETONE = the &quot;MEK&quot; ketone found in brush cleaner.<br />
<br />
ALCOHOLS and KETONES are different types of organic solvents.<br />
Generally, alcohols are safer than ketones, and sufficiently strong <br />
solvents for most clean-up applications in rod building. <br />
All organics solvents should be used with ventilation.<br />
Skin contact should be avoided. All these solvents are flammable.<br />
<br />
- Cliff Hall, Bach.Sci. Chemistry &amp; bench-top chemist for 14 years. -<br />
<br />
For even more information, see the Thread:<br />
&quot;ACETONE? NOT on YOUR HANDS !!!&quot; [Cliff Hall 10-19-04 03:01]<br />
[<a href="http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,118095,118162#msg-118162" rel="nofollow" >www.rodbuilding.org</a>]]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Cliff Hall</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 15:57:37 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207941#msg-207941</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207941#msg-207941</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Denatured alcohol is a blend of methanol and ethanol, the blend being created in order to make it poisionous.  If it was safe to drink, you couldn't buy it at the local paint or hardware store.  It's a tad bit stronger solvent than IPO and is also sometimes used as alcohol stove fuel.<br />
<br />
...........]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 15:08:30 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207936#msg-207936</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207936#msg-207936</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I put my alcohol in a spray bottle. Less mess.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Scott Youschak</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:52:42 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207935#msg-207935</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207935#msg-207935</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ LOL.....Havent thought of that, but I have used that to get gum out before.....hmmmmm]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:07:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207933#msg-207933</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207933#msg-207933</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ You may think I'm some kind of a crackpot, but. . . I've used peanut butter quite often to remove problem labels. No!!! It doesn't matter if it's crunchy or creamy.<br />
<br />
&quot;Life is to short to fish with Ugly rods.&quot;]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bob Turpen</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 13:50:44 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207926#msg-207926</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207926#msg-207926</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ thanks all for the great help.  The label I removed from rod was the white Rainshadow label on bottom of rod.  I just peeled label off and could not get all glue residue off with the iso alcohol i was trying.  Thanks again for all the tips and insight.....I pass ACE right on way home i will check them out.<br />
<br />
<br />
Dave]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 13:07:23 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207923#msg-207923</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207923#msg-207923</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I repair rods and build rods also.  What type of glue was used?  if epoxy base, I use a lighter or alcohol burner. Be careful not to have flame direct on rod but off the side.To much heat will weaken blank, the epoxy will blister and you can pick off or rub off.Their will be remaining residue which i sand off with super fine sand paper,(automotive sanding wet /dry type  1500- 2000 grit) Testors has hobby sanding films for sanding,which is super fine, that works good.Used it to sand epoxy finish to remove ruff points.  Put new epoxy over and can not see any sanding marks.Also used on polyester casting resin, which I use for makeing butt caps,reel seats,etc.<br />
P.S I sand with a rod turner running, If you put to much pressure while sanding, epoxy will turn gummy and ball up under sand paper, so take you time and lightly sand, cool and sand again. Clean dust off with alcohol. If other glue like label glue , I use goof, goo gone. Clean with alcohol .good luck.<br />
<br />
I get my denatured alcohol at a drug store. More expensive, but rubbing alcohol will leave a oily film when used. To test your alcohol put a little on a good clean sheet of paper and let dry. If there is a spot it has an oily additive]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Kenneth Bratzel</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:59:59 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207922#msg-207922</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207922#msg-207922</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Tom:<br />
<br />
I'd have to bet dollars to donuts he's talking about the flexcoat layer over the decal that rubbing alcohol won't soften up before trying to remove. BUT in this case as ammended a 2nd time, I am wrong and glad Tom is not a betting man<br />
<br />
I'd try soaking a small rag segment with denatured alcohol (which can be purchased at any paint store or dept; of your major box chain grocery/department store) then wrap it around the effected area and cover with seran wrap as denatureed alcohol evaporates before your eyes. Let work fora time then go in a try to remove. repeat if necessary.<br />
<br />
Some times even if  you apply the rod bond correctly as Tom described,  as you near the spot where the grip needs to be located you screet the glue away from one end or the other. Or when reaming the grip to fit the blank you left a void or a narrow bit in the grip I.D. that may inhibit coverage or screet the glue. Blank prep i.e. achieving a condition of a water-break-free surface (a light yet uniform sanding) on the blank allows/urges the adhesive to self spread (with thinner adhesives than rod bond) But sometimes we can't achive this perfected end, so if that happens I use a 1-1/2&quot; syringe to shot thin 90 min 2-part adhesive into the possible area where glue maybe lacking, or where a void may have been reamed into the grip I.D.. A Sz 18g needle woks best, but are hard to find, I had to special order 100 from Grogans. Angle the needle down onto the blank surface via a cork pit, don't obscure the needle opening, load the void up with glue and work around massaging it about with the loose play in the grip itself, where you noticed the problem in the 1st place. <br />
<br />
This is not neccessary in the perfect How-to world Tom describes SO BUY HIS BOOK , OR SPECIFIC ROD MAKER MAG ISSUE CONTAINING A CORRESPOINDING IN DEPTH ARTICAL AND ACHIEVE THAT END then forego the elaborte means necessary to fix a bad procedural habit.<br />
<br />
Denature Alcholo is often uesed as camp stove fuel, it evaporates a bit faster than isoprophol. ]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Chris Karp</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:52:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207921#msg-207921</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207921#msg-207921</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dave,<br />
<br />
I get my Denatured Alcohol from the local Ace hardware store's paint department.  It's commonly found in any paint dept. Big Box Hdwe, Wally World, etc...) along with Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Paint Thinner, etc...  They'll most likely have &quot;Goo Gone&quot; in the same aisle.<br />
<br />
I go back to the corner Hardware Store because they sell &quot;screw top&quot; cans.  I could probably save a $1 or $2 a quart at Lowes or Depot, but they sell those blasted &quot;flip top&quot; cans that need to be pried open with a screw driver.  Seems like any time in need Alcohol in a hurry I can't put my hands on a screwdriver to get the darn can open.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mark Griffin</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:52:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207920#msg-207920</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207920#msg-207920</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ What is the difference between &quot;Denatured&quot; and &quot;99% Isop&quot; anyways? (always wondered that)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Gary Richmond</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:40:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207919#msg-207919</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207919#msg-207919</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks for the info RM.....Where would i get goo gone?  Home depot or someplace like that?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:37:30 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207917#msg-207917</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207917#msg-207917</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Goo gone is very good. I have also had good luck using lighter fluid.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>R.Michael Healey</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:28:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207916#msg-207916</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207916#msg-207916</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Thanks Tom will my isopropyl work or do i need denatured]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:28:42 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207915#msg-207915</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207915#msg-207915</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ No, use alcohol for removing wet epoxy.<br />
<br />
<br />
...........]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:27:17 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207913#msg-207913</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207913#msg-207913</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Tom,<br />
<br />
Great answers as always!!  That is what I thought on the grips issue.  Just was concerned regarding the internal glue coverage.  will those 2 products remove the rod bond reisdue off the blank once i slide grip into place? Or if not what would you recomend]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:25:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207911#msg-207911</guid>
            <title>Re: Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207911#msg-207911</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Best bet for removing stubborn label residue are products like &quot;Goo Gone&quot; and &quot;Citri-Solve.&quot;   None of the alcohols really work on the more stubborn lable adhesives.<br />
<br />
On the grips, you need to put your glue up above where you intend them to reside.  Bring the grip down and over the blank where the adhesive has been placed and swirl and turn the grip so that the inside is coated with adhesive.  Then push it into place.  You will want to ream the ID of the grip so that on a dry fit it will fall to within about an inch of where you want it placed.  Cork won't stretch like EVA or Hypalon, so you want to ream the bore so that it's a pretty close fit to begin with.<br />
<br />
.............]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Anonymous User</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:21:03 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207910#msg-207910</guid>
            <title>Denatured alcohol</title>
            <link>http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,207910,207910#msg-207910</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello all,<br />
<br />
I have 2 part question:<br />
<br />
1.  Where do I buy denatured alcohol?  I have removed some labels from blanks and cant get the remaining glue off.  I have tried rubbing alcohol, but no good.  Will denatured handle this?  <br />
<br />
2.  I have used cork rings glued on rod in past to make grips.  On 2 new rods i am going to be starting i have purchased preformed grips.  what is the process for gluing these on.  Seems like if i glue on blank and then rotate grip in place will it not just push all glue down rod, or will enough get inside grip to hold it?  do i just wipe down any residue on blank with the denatured alcohol?  Planning on using Rod bond for this task.  Just worried about the holding of the grip thats all.  I actually will be using the top locking Fuji spinning handle kit for these 2 rods.<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help I am still only on my 6th built rod.  Great Site!!!<br />
<br />
Dave]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Dave May</dc:creator>
            <category>rodboard</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:13:59 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
    </channel>
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